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Pocket Knife Locks Compared; Merits and Pitfalls

There are a plethora of pocket knife lock types available today, and in this article I’ll give you my comparative opinions of them. I think that which lock is best for you depends on several factors: your intended use, your hand shape / size, your aesthetic preferences, etc. So this article is not intended to point to any particular lock being the objective best, but rather to give my thoughts having carried and used and pondered them for years.

Back Lock

The back lock is one of the most recognizable and well known locks available. From the tail lock of the Buck 110 to the Triad Lock from Demko Knives & Cold Steel, the back lock has earned its place as a classic. It works by having a bar or rod spring press a rocking lock bar on the spine side of the knife’s handle down into a cutout on the blade tang once opened. A well made back lock can withstand heavy use, and has a particularly strong bias for close compared to other locks. The downside is that you almost always have to have your hand in the path of the blade to unlock the knife. Also, the pressure that the rocking bar applies to the blade tang often results in back locks requiring more constant positive pressure to open them than other locks. Still, the back lock is reliable and simple to use.

Liner Lock / Frame Lock

Liner locks and frame locks are also one of the most commonly used lock styles. I lump these together because they work essentially the same. They both have a leaf spring that bends inward toward the blade and interfaces with a ramp cut into the tang. The difference is in that a liner lock is cut from a thin liner and a frame lock is cut from the handle itself (the knife pictured below, a Jack Wolf Knives Primo Jack, is technically a bolster frame lock). These locks rarely break from wear and tear due to the large leaf spring involved, but they can have or develop lock rock (meaning the lock bar slides on the tang ramp). Some claim that your grip helps hold the frame lock (but not the liner lock) closed, but I don’t find this to be commonly applicable in normal use. The liner lock and frame lock require you to put your thumb in the path of the blade to unlock the knife. Also, these locks use a detent ball in the lock bar and a divot in the blade to hold the knife closed, and they sometimes can have too much or too little strength in the bias toward closed. Some of the most premium knives are liner and especially frame locks, and they’re great locks when done well.

Compression Lock

I decided to separate out the Spyderco Compression Lock into its own subcategory within this class of locks because it functions very similar to the typical style of this lock but without some of the downsides. The compression lock is placed on the spine side of the handle, rather than the blade well side, and this takes away the need to put your hand in the way of the blade when closing. It also places the lock bar between the blade tang and a stop pin, which purportedly increases the strength. While the compression lock requires you to use your index finger to unlock, which can take some getting used to, I think it is a general upgrade over the typical liner lock.

Cross Bar Lock

The cross bar lock has exploded in prevalence recently due to the patent on the Benchmade Axis Lock expiring, allowing many more companies to use this lock style. It involves, you guessed it, a BAR that goes aCROSS the tang of the blade to hold it open. The access on both sides of the handles to the cross bar makes this one of the most ambidextrous locks, working just as well for right and left hand use. The cross bar lock doesn’t require your hand to be in the way of the blade when closing, which makes injuries less likely. One downside of the cross bar lock is that it often uses a (relative to other styles of spring) thin wire form torsion spring that some find to be prone to breaking. That said, some locks that are in roughly the same category as a cross bar lock, such as the Spyderco Caged Ball Bearing Lock or the Microtech RAM-LOK, use different types of springs. The cross bar lock stands out for its inherent ambidextrous nature and ease of use.

Button Lock

The button lock is probably more well known on out the side automatics, but is also available on manual opening knives. The button lock uses a compression spring to push a cone shaped piece against a ramp on the blade tang. Button locks are as simple to use as it gets; push the button, blade closes. They don’t require your hand to be in the path of the blade and anyone can use them. In my opinion they’re usually relatively easy to use left handed also. The compression spring is unlikely to wear out, but if the angles of the cone and tang are off they can sometimes slip if heavy pressure is applied to the blade tang. Some highest value budget friendly knives, such as the Sencut Serene below, use button locks.

Plunge Lock / Spine Lock

Spine or Plunge Locks are a newer type of lock that have created a lot of excitement in the pocket knife enthusiast community. These locks work by forcing a bar on the spine side of the handle forward to block the blade tang from rotating closed. If it sounds similar to a cross bar lock, that’s because it is similar in how it actually holds the blade open. The main place where plunge locks differ from cross bar locks is in how you actuate the lock. Plunge locks, also sometimes called spine locks, are disengaged with one finger pulling down on a ramped part of the lock bar that protrudes from the spine side of the handle between the two sides, rather than by pulling on a part of the cross bar on the handle slabs. These locks offer much the same advantages of a cross bar lock, but I think sometimes suffer in ergonomics. Two well known examples of spine locks are the SnecX Super Lock and the Demko Shark Lock. I think these locks have a lot of potential, but I haven’t been win over completely yet.

Summary

Now, at the beginning of this article I said the purpose was not to suggest a “best” lock… but I am going to go against that in a way. It might not be the best lock for everyone, but if you’re looking to get your first (or only) modern pocket knife I would recommend looking at knives with a button lock. Why? The button lock is super simple and intuitive to operate, doesn’t require your hand to be in the path of the blade, is reliable and secure, and doesn’t interfere with the ergonomics or aesthetics as much as some locks.

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Last Week’s Knife Thoughts 2026-3-24

Well, I’m a day late on this one, and it’s the first in a few weeks, but better late than never! I was sick and unable to record for a while (and ran out of pre-recorded videos) so I also haven’t posted any videos for longer than I’d like. But have no fear, I was Thinking Knife Thoughts the whole time!

Latest Article, On Gifting Knives

Gifting Knives: Superstition & Sentimentality

Blade HQ Affiliate Link

If you’re a knife enthusiast, you likely know of Blade HQ. They’re one of the most popular knife dealers out there. They also have a strong presence on YouTube, and I always especially appreciate their coverage of BLADE and SHOT show. So I was excited when they reached out to ask if I would like to become an affiliate. That means that if you decide to buy a knife from Blade HQ you can show them that you Think Knife Thoughts (and you can help support Knife Thoughts) by using my link below. And, of course, it doesn’t cost you anything. They also have a big 23rd anniversary sale going on now, check it out at the link below!

Blade HQ

Jack Wolf Knives Gateway Barlow 2026 Video

Barlow Bearcat Club Gear Video

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Gifting Knives: Superstition & Sentimentality

Knives have been an integral tool for humans since the dark depths of prehistory, so it’s no surprise that superstitions around them persist. While there are various types of superstitions surrounding knives, some of the most widespread center on the gifting of knives.

Two knives my wife has given me, a Spyderco Ouroboros and Spyderco Roadie

Across several cultures, gifting a knife carries a connotation of separation or severance. Since a knife’s use is to cut, the gift is seen as “cutting” the ties of the relationship. This belief shows up in the UK, Germany, and China, among others. In order to avoid this, some cultures expect that the recipient of a knife give a coin to the giver. The coin does not have to be of equal value, as it is purely a symbolic gesture to transform the gift into a “transaction”. Sometimes the giver of the knife will even also give a coin to the recipient for this purpose. This tradition is carried on even today among some knife enthusiasts.

A Great Eastern Cutlery Special Factory Assembly given to me by my father

However, this is not a tradition that I encountered until I dove into the world of the online knife community. I grew up in a family that enjoyed and used knives, and saw many knives given as gifts without any hint of superstition. In fact, I would call my dad a prolific giver of knives. I remember him giving me knives when he’d come home from trips, and giving Swiss Army style knives with his business info engraved on them to clients. My brothers and I have also given each other many knives throughout the years, with some of them being among the most prized in my collection. I gave engraved knives to my groomsmen for my wedding. My wife has given me knives that I adore. All this, and no supernatural cutting of ties that I’ve noticed!

A wedding gift from one of my brothers

That said, I think there is room for superstition and ritual in today’s overly grounded world. While I might not observe this particular ritual, I respect it. I just really enjoy sharing my love of knives, and don’t feel the need for anything in return beyond the satisfaction of knowing the recipient will appreciate the gift.

A gift from the maker, Sean Yaw.

Are there any superstitions you hold or rituals you observe surrounding knives? I’d love to hear about them! Reach out through the form below and let me know.



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    Last Week’ Knife Thoughts 2026-3-2

    Why Choose a Slipjoint?

    I recently posted an article outlining 4 things a modern knife enthusiast should know before purchasing their first slipjoint, but that begs the question ‘Why choose a slipjoint in the first place?’. I think this question probably deserves its own full article, and in a way this recent article on Fountain Pens and Traditional Knives goes into depth on one reason. That said, here I want to give you two other good reasons why it’s worth owning, carrying, and using a slip joint knife.

    4 Things Modern Knife Enthusiasts Should Know Before Buying Their First Slipjoint

    Legality

    The sad fact is that some places have laws against locking knives. Several nations in Europe and even some localities in the United States ban locking knives. Slipjoints are both legal to carry and seen as less threatening in many places.

    Walk & Talk

    There’s nothing quite like the “walk and talk” of a good slipjoint. Walk and talk is the sound and feel of the knife opening and closing. Of course, modern knives have their own sounds and action, but there’s something particularly satisfying about the experience of opening and closing a good old fashioned back spring slipjoint.

    Why Do YOU Choose to Carry a Slipjoint?

    Reach out below to let me know!



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      4 Things Modern Knife Enthusiasts Should Know Before Buying Their First Slipjoint

      So you’ve decided to try out a slipjoint knife, but don’t know what to expect. Maybe you’re familiar with modern, one hand opening and locking, knives but want to give a classic pocket knife from Case, Great Eastern Cutlery, or Cooper Cutlery a try. In this article I’ll cover 4 things you should know before you get your first (or next!) slipjoint.

      What is a Slipjoint?

      First off, what is a slipjoint? A slipjoint is a non locking folding knife. From there, things can vary. There are modern slipjoints, which often have screw construction or even can be opened with one hand, but a traditional slipjoint typically has no pocket clip, is opened with two hands, and is constructed with pins. Slipjoints have enjoyed a resurgence as of late in the knife industry. Why (in my opinion)? Firstly, they are often legal in places that locking knives are not and generally less intimidating to “non knife people”. Secondly, they have a great tactile feel and sound when opening and closing that is just satisfying. Finally, they harbor a historical and authentic feel harkens back to fond memories (real or imagined) like grandpa peeling an apple. Just a note, owner of GEC Bill Howard told me that the correct term for what they make is simply a “pocket knife” and that “slipjoint” is itself a modern term. Whatever you call them and whatever has caused the regrowth of interest in slipjoints, they’re a great addition for any knife enthusiast.

      1: Simple Steels Abound

      Many traditional slipjoints tend to have simple steels. While modern knives, and also many modern slipjoints, often boast matching modern super steels, traditional slipjoints often have carbon steel blades. You’ll want to wipe your carbon steel blades after use and before closing, in order to lessen the incidence of oxidation. Likewise, it’s good to apply a layer of oil before storing the knife for any amount of time, or even just at the end of the day each time you carry a carbon steel bladed knife. Carbon steel blades require more care than stainless steel, but they also develop a patina which can both be protective against harmful rust and many find to be aesthetically pleasing.

      Two similar knives with 1095 steel, one (bottom) with years of patina and polishing and the other (top) unused

      2: Pivot Maintenance Matters

      Slipjoints rarely have ball bearing pivots, like many modern knives, and most production slipjoints don’t even have washers. For this reason, you’ll want to keep the pivot clear of debris and well oiled. You should check the pivot periodically and clean out any pocket lint or other dirt; I often use a Q-Tip or toothpick. Oiling the pivot will keep it working smoothly and without excess wear; I use simple mineral oil, but any knife oil should work. “Oil the Joints”, as Charlie Campagna’s Waynorth brand knives suggest on their tangs, and your slipjoint should keep its walk and talk for a lifetime.

      A modern slipjoint with washers still benefits from regular oiling

      3: Natural Material Expectations

      Many slipjoints have natural materials for their covers, or handle scales, such as wood, bone, and antler. These materials are not as stable as modern synthetic composites, such as G10 or Micarta, and therefore can sometimes shrink, swell, or even crack. While these are still issues and should be addressed, they’re just a possibility that comes with natural materials. Reputable companies like Great Eastern Cutlery, Case, Cooper Cutlery, Jack Wolf Knives, and RoseCraft Blades understand this and stand behind their products, from my own personal experience working with them. If you have an issue with a natural cover material, send the company an email and let them know you heard from Knife Thoughts that they’ll take good care of you. While issues can be more common, natural materials provide a warmth, uniqueness, and charm that just can’t be had with synthetic materials.

      Rendezvous Special Special Factory Assembly GEC 2025
      Three common natural materials found on slipjoint knives (left to right): bone, antler, wood

      4: Disassembly Discouragement

      One major difference between slipjoints and modern knives is that disassembling slipjoints is generally heavily discouraged. This tends to be true both with pinned (ie traditionally built) knives and even with screw construction slipjoints, like Jack Wolf Knives. Disassembly is a common enjoyment for modern knife enthusiasts (though I personally avoid it) but, due to the way that most slipjoints work using a backspring to hold the blade open and closed, it is usually quite difficult to reassemble them. This is even more true on pinned slipjoints, where disassembly has an actual destructive element. So the best thing to do to keep your slipjoint in good working order is to keep it clean, oiled, and sharp and use it only for cutting (no prying or lateral pressure on the blade).

      A traditional construction (top, Old Hickory Folder) and modern construction (American Blade Works Slipjoint) slipjoint, neither of which would I disassemble

      Embrace the Slipjoint Experience

      Now that you’ve taken in these four points, you’re more than prepared for your first slipjoint! Take the time to appreciate the craftsmanship, the walk and talk, and the history that went into its design. Use it with care and intention and it will bring you a lifetime of enjoyment.

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