2024 has already been a banner year for Great Eastern Cutlery. They have produced the quintessential #15 TC Barlow, the new #78 BulletEnd Barlow, the well loved #39 Colt Cutter / Horse Rancher, and the classic #47 Viper (among others) so far. Now they have a new pattern in production and it looks like another on the way with some old favorites coming back around also. Read on to learn what’s (possibly… probably?) on the way!
#32 Engineer
GEC is currently making a new pattern called the #32 Engineer. This is a large swell center multi blade knife, like an up-sized #33 Conductor. It offers a clip point main blade and a pen secondary on opposite pivots, both riding on a single spring. It’s being offered in Agate ESPL (a synthetic), Cocobolo Wood, Hemlock Jigged Bone, and Sambar Stag. Some of these have already dropped, so if you’re after one now is the time to be watching dealers!
Image from GEC (source linked)
#91 Large Stockman
The #91 is a new pattern and sure to cause a splash in the collector community. It’s a 4.38″ closed round ended serpentine. It seems they will be making it in a classic Stockman configuration with a clip point main blade and sheepfoot and spey secondaries. I am not sure if this will be considered a Sowbelly Stockman, but it’s certainly arguable based on the frame shape.
Image originally posted by Spark on BladeForums and made by GEC (source linked)
#81 Moose
The #81 is a serpentine pattern that GEC has run as a Stockman, a Muskrat, and a Moose. Considering the “City Stock” version that Charlie Campagna has shown is coming under his Waynorth brand, it seems they are doing a new take on the Moose with a full size clip point and a small spey blade. Many enthusiasts have been hoping for a re-release of the Abilene Stock Knife on the #81 frame, so it will be interesting to see what all versions they end up making this run.
Image originally posted by Charlie Campagna on BladeForums and made by GEC (source linked)
#93 Swayback
The #93 is a swayback frame that GEC has used both for their Ramfoot and the Waynorth Lambfoot. Both these versions of the #93 are widely loved and there has been excitement for a possible re-release since the “What’s in the Hallway” picture began showing a line of lambs earlier this year. All About Pocket Knives has announced that their 2024 knife is on the #93 pattern, but there’s little solid information on the specifics so far.
Image from GEC (source linked)
To be clear, these are merely speculations. There is no confirmation from Great Eastern Cutlery of any of these patterns except for the #32. That said, my reason for expecting the other 3 patterns all amount to basically the same evidence. There have been SFOs confirmed to be upcoming for all three patterns. A Waynorth on the #81, the BladeForums 2024 knife on the #91, and the All About Pocket Knives 2024 knife on the #93. Does this mean that there are definitely regular full runs of these patterns coming also? No, but historically GEC does not typically do SFOs on a pattern without also doing a normal run under their own brands. No matter what actually comes to fruition, it’s an exciting time to be a fan of Great Eastern Cutlery knives!
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I love Barlows. A Barlow is what ignited my interest in traditional pocket knives, and the main focus of my collecting to this day. I’m not alone; many knife enthusiasts consider the Barlow to be among the best patterns, and even non enthusiasts often know the name. But what actually is a Barlow? What makes a knife a Barlow… or not a Barlow?
One of the Best Recent Barlows, the GEC 2AB, and a Barlow Bearcat Club Slip by Lynch Leather
I Like Big Bolsters and I Cannot Lie
The defining characteristic of the Barlow pattern is an elongated bolster. More specifically, the rule is typically given as the pivot end bolster being 1/3 the total handle length. A Barlow has no end cap, or butt end bolster. The Great Eastern Cutlery Barlows (so far….) have all held true to this rule, with the following bolster to handle length percentages: #14 36%, #15 36%, #25 33%, #77 36%, #86 35%. There is also the so-called Grandaddy Barlow, which is a larger and, particularly, longer version of the Barlow. While Grandaddy Barlows have extended bolsters as compared to other similarly sized knives, their sheer size would make a full 1/3 length bolster less aesthetically appealing. That said, the large Barlows GEC has made still stick close to the 1/3 rule, with the Northwoods Madison being 31% and the Remington “The Cowboy” at 29%. Case Barlow bolsters are also around 35%. Where does the percentage cutoff lie? How short is too short? It’s tough to say, but usually easy to see. For example, the currently being released GEC #78 Bullet End Barlow doesn’t indisputably make the cut to my eye, and it is around 26%. So the most distinctive feature of a Barlow is the extended Bolster.
TL;DR? A Succinct Infographic
Big Bolster = Big Durability & Big Aesthetics
So, why the extended bolster? The answer usually given is that it results in a stronger and more durable knife. The bolster is what the pivot pin is peened or riveted into, and maybe the extra metal allows for a more secure hold by the “mushrooming” from being hammered. Alternatively, the additional metal might allow for a more rigid handle and in turn less likelihood of the knife pulling apart. By moving the cover material, usually a much less durable material than the metal bolster, away from the pivot there is less flex and therefore wear at the transition between the bolsters and cover material or on the covers themselves. A more durable knife was an important feature when the Barlow was mostly seen as an affordable working tool. The extended bolster certainly also adds an undeniably unique aesthetic. I think this visual appeal is as much a reason for the extended bolster as the durability, at least among collectors. The extended bolster calls back to the golden era of traditional pocket knives, they’re place in history, and a time when they were ubiquitous as every day tools. No matter the original intent of the extended bolster, it is the defining characteristic of the Barlow and a recognizable hallmark among pocket knife patterns.
Most of GEC’s Barlow Patterns
Variety is the Spice of Life… and Barlows?
While the extended bolster is a necessity, almost everything else about the Barlow can vary. Barlows have come in basically every blade shape (Clip Point, Spear Point, Sheepfoot, Wharncliffe, Drop Point, Spey, Razor, etc. etc.), though I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Hawkbill Barlow. Additionally, they can have a main blade and secondary, usually a pen blade, or even two full size blades. Any blades must all come from the same pivot end. Barlows can also come in several handle shapes. The most common shape is the regular jack, but a Barlow can also be a swell end jack, sleeve board jack, or even a curved jack. Sometimes you’ll see English made knives with extended bolsters on swayback handle shapes called Barlows, but that type doesn’t seem to have made it “across the pond”. The fact that most Barlows are in the shape of a Regular Jack has, in my experience, contributed to people misidentifying normal Jack knives as Barlows.
A Handmade Barlow by Sean Yaw
Barlows in Spirit… or in Name Only
With the rise in popularity of traditional pocket knives and slipjoints, and particularly Barlows, there has been a growth in the phenomenon of knives being misidentified as Barlows. I am fine with knives that have extended faux bolsters, often a different color of the same material or a different material than the rest of the handle (Micarta vs G10, etc.), being called Barlows. Are they purely traditional? No, but on that note I am also fine with knives using modern construction being called Barlows as long as they have a true extended bolster, like the Jack Wolf Knives Midnight Jack (and even the fully modern After Hours Jack!). I’m even okay with knives that just have aesthetic milling to give the appearance of an extended bolster being deemed Barlows, such as the LionSteel Slim Dom and Traditional Pocket KnivesLake Champlain Barlow. However, knives with a normal size bolster or no bolster at all just don’t pass the test for me. Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon to see a knife that is vaguely shaped like a Regular Jack to be called a Barlow, especially when modern knife companies take cues from traditional patterns. I understand that definitions change, and that that is an integral part of the evolution of language, but I think it worth holding onto the distinction of a Barlow at the least having the appearance of an extended bolster.
Two Barlows in Spirit
A Barlow in Every Pocket
Now that you know what a Barlow is, I hope you decide to try one. A Great Eastern Cutlery TC Barlow brought me into the world of traditional knives, but the enthusiasm and wealth of knowledge shared by people (such as great patrons of the Barlow like Charlie Campagna, who is always sharing traditional knife wisdom such as on the Catch Bit Podcast) about this classic pattern is one of the main things that has kept me so engaged. If you find yourself hooked by the allure of this classic pattern, make sure you check out and apply to the Barlow Bearcat Club.
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The Stockman and Cattle Knife are some of the most traditional and revered pocket knife patterns… but what are they? And what’s the difference?
GEC’s interpretations of the Cattle Knife (top) and a modified Stockman (bottom)
What are the Stockman and Cattle Knife patterns?
Both the Stockman and Cattle Knife patterns are types of traditional non-locking (now called “slipjoint”) pocket knives. They traditionally have three blades sharing two springs. They both historically were designed and used in agriculture, ranching, and animal husbandry. They’re both typically medium to large sized, compared to other traditional pocket knife patterns, ranging from 3.5″ to 4.25″ closed (with both smaller and larger outliers). So there’s a lot of similarity between the two patterns… so why do they have different names?
The Great Eastern Cutlery #35 Cattle Knife
What’s the difference between a Stockman and Cattle Knife?
The difference between a Stockman and a Cattle Knife comes down to two main things: the handle shape, and the main blade shape. Whereas a Stockman typically uses a serpentine frame (either with rounded or squared ends), a Cattle Knife most often uses an equal end cigar frame (and I’ve never seen one with anything but rounded ends). Also, while both patterns traditionally include sheepfoot and spay secondary blades, a Stockman normally has a clip point main blade and a spear point for the Cattle Knife.
The Rough Ryder RR2102, a square end Stockman with modern steel and construction
That all said, like most “rules” for traditional knife patterns, Stockman and Cattle Knives often bend or break these definitions. For example some include a different secondary blade configuration, like the Great Eastern Cutlery Dixie Stock Knife below with a wharncliffe and drop point. Some even include different tools, like a bottler opener or awl / punch. Some manufacturers have included a lock on the main blade. There are also some modern interpretations with screw construction. As with other traditional knife patterns, the Stockman and Cattle Knife have evolved in their long years on the market. The Stockman and Cattle Knife are two similar but distinct patterns, and two of the most loved!
The Great Eastern Cutlery #82 Dixie Stock Knife
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Okay, I’ll admit it; I have some unpopular opinions about slipjoints. Sure, I like a good snappy action, a pinchable blade, and good fitment like everyone else. There are just some things that many like that I don’t prefer, and I can’t keep them a secret any longer!
Half Stops… Who Needs ‘Em?
I’d take a cam tang over a half stop any day. People claim that a half stop is a safety feature, that it helps stop the blade from closing on your hands if you accidentally put pressure on the spine. In my experience, half stops are as likely to cause a slip while opening the knife as they are to stop the blade from closing on your hand. I actually got a bad cut once while opening a knife that had a strong pull because my hands were oily and slipped when the blade hit the half stop. I also find pulling the blade all the way open or pushing it all the way closed to be more satisfying… no interruption from a half stop needed. So for me I prefer no half stop both from a practical and an aesthetic perspective.
I love the Great Eastern Cutlery #15 Pattern… despite it having a half stop
Sharpening Choils… Should Chill
Sharpening choils seem to be a frequent request on knife designs. I recall people griping in particular about the lack of sharpening choils on Spyderco knives when I frequented the forums. You still don’t see them on many traditional slipjoints, but they’re common on modern slipjoints. Unlike half stops, my preference against sharpening choils is mostly practical. I find that sharpening choils tend to catch when cutting, especially in breaking down cardboard, and moreso the larger the choil. Now, the main argument for a sharpening choil is also practical; they help to keep a consistent blade shape through numerous sharpenings. Sometimes, especially with fixed angle sharpening systems, a blade without a choil can be difficult to sharpen evenly all the way to the heel. For me though, being that I use stones to sharpen, I’d rather have the uninterrupted edge. All that said, I can’t say I have anything against the looks of a well designed sharpening choil.
Jack Wolf Knives have exaggerated sharpening choils, but it works well for them
Carbon Steel… Straight in the Can
I know this one will ruffle some feathers, but there’s never really a time that I’d prefer carbon steel over stainless steel. On a user, stainless steel means much less maintenance. While in the past it was true that stainless steel was often of lower quality, the opposite is more commonly true now. Modern stainless steel has advanced far beyond the capability of 1095 and its traditional brethren. Simple carbon steels are easier to sharpen, but much of it depends on the skills and tools available to the user. For a collection knife, stainless steel means you don’t have to worry that your knife will rust just sitting in its box if a little moisture finds its way in. It also means the etch will not lighten with storage care. While I can appreciate a patina as a visual reminder of the usefulness of the knife, I generally prefer the look of unaltered steel. So, for me, stainless steel is usually more practical and allows me to continue to enjoy the knife’s original intended look.
The vast majority of GEC knives are in carbon steel, like this #21 Bull Buster showing a healthy patina developing
That said…..
This is all not to say that I don’t like knives with those features. Many of my favorite knives have some or even all of the characteristics mentioned above. Most Great Eastern Cutlery knives have carbon steel and half stops. Almost all Jack Wolf Knives have sharpening choils and half stops. So it’s not that a half stop, or sharpening choil, or carbon steel are deal breakers on their own or even in concert for me. Rather, they’re just not features I would include on my ideal slipjoint.
What unpopular opinions do you have about slipjoints? Are there any features you dislike that others like, or vice versa?
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Some knives boast innovations that add to the practicality, others showcase special features that add to the aesthetic, and then there’s the Imperial Trick Knife.
The Trick Knife is a single bladed non locking folding knife that was made with a rather unique feature. Within the blade well a space was cut in the liners that housed a small free moving bar. That bar moves up and down in its housing due to gravity as the knife is turned. Why? It gives the knife a “trick”; the blade can only be opened when the knife is upside down and can only be closed when the knife is upright.
An advertisement for a trick knife called “The Humbug Knife”
What is the purpose of this feature? Well, as the name suggests, it really only serves as a fun trick to challenge your friends. In fact, some original advertising even claimed that only the most calm tempered could open it without frustration the first time. There’s not much practical use of a knife locking closed and not open. That said, if you want to “secure” your knife against someone opening it without your leave (like, in my case, if you have a small child around) it could be a useful feature… at least until they figure out the trick.
Despite its endearing quirkiness, the trick mechanism seems to have been seen as pure novelty by the manufacturer. The blade tang is stamped with several patent numbers. The tang numbers correspond to patents for the construction of the handle, but I could find no patents related to the locking mechanism online. Also, these trick knives were often given away by companies as advertising knives with their logo etched on the handles, or sold cheaply with TV character graphics on the handles.
Patent drawing for the handle construction method used by Imperial, the bottom line of the tang stamp on the Trick Knife
Despite the fact that the trick mechanism isn’t overly practical and the trick knife was sold as a novelty, it’s a unique and interesting piece of cutlery history. It hearkens back to a golden age of the knife industry when there was widespread innovation, just like there is today. Just as with those of today, not all cutlery innovations of the past took hold. Even still, the Imperial Trick Knife oozes a certain endearing nostalgia that can’t be denied.
Thank you to Jerram for loaning this awesome piece of cutlery history, and congratulations on owning such a great heirloom!
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