Tag: knife history

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What is a Barlow? The Enigmatic Pocket Knife Pattern Revealed

I love Barlows. A Barlow is what ignited my interest in traditional pocket knives, and the main focus of my collecting to this day. I’m not alone; many knife enthusiasts consider the Barlow to be among the best patterns, and even non enthusiasts often know the name. But what actually is a Barlow? What makes a knife a Barlow… or not a Barlow?

One of the Best Recent Barlows, the GEC 2AB, and a Barlow Bearcat Club Slip by Lynch Leather

I Like Big Bolsters and I Cannot Lie

The defining characteristic of the Barlow pattern is an elongated bolster. More specifically, the rule is typically given as the pivot end bolster being 1/3 the total handle length. A Barlow has no end cap, or butt end bolster. The Great Eastern Cutlery Barlows (so far….) have all held true to this rule, with the following bolster to handle length percentages: #14 36%, #15 36%, #25 33%, #77 36%, #86 35%. There is also the so-called Grandaddy Barlow, which is a larger and, particularly, longer version of the Barlow. While Grandaddy Barlows have extended bolsters as compared to other similarly sized knives, their sheer size would make a full 1/3 length bolster less aesthetically appealing. That said, the large Barlows GEC has made still stick close to the 1/3 rule, with the Northwoods Madison being 31% and the Remington “The Cowboy” at 29%. Case Barlow bolsters are also around 35%. Where does the percentage cutoff lie? How short is too short? It’s tough to say, but usually easy to see. For example, the currently being released GEC #78 Bullet End Barlow doesn’t indisputably make the cut to my eye, and it is around 26%. So the most distinctive feature of a Barlow is the extended Bolster.

TL;DR? A Succinct Infographic

Big Bolster = Big Durability & Big Aesthetics

So, why the extended bolster? The answer usually given is that it results in a stronger and more durable knife. The bolster is what the pivot pin is peened or riveted into, and maybe the extra metal allows for a more secure hold by the “mushrooming” from being hammered. Alternatively, the additional metal might allow for a more rigid handle and in turn less likelihood of the knife pulling apart. By moving the cover material, usually a much less durable material than the metal bolster, away from the pivot there is less flex and therefore wear at the transition between the bolsters and cover material or on the covers themselves. A more durable knife was an important feature when the Barlow was mostly seen as an affordable working tool. The extended bolster certainly also adds an undeniably unique aesthetic. I think this visual appeal is as much a reason for the extended bolster as the durability, at least among collectors. The extended bolster calls back to the golden era of traditional pocket knives, they’re place in history, and a time when they were ubiquitous as every day tools. No matter the original intent of the extended bolster, it is the defining characteristic of the Barlow and a recognizable hallmark among pocket knife patterns.

Most of GEC’s Barlow Patterns

Variety is the Spice of Life… and Barlows?

While the extended bolster is a necessity, almost everything else about the Barlow can vary. Barlows have come in basically every blade shape (Clip Point, Spear Point, Sheepfoot, Wharncliffe, Drop Point, Spey, Razor, etc. etc.), though I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Hawkbill Barlow. Additionally, they can have a main blade and secondary, usually a pen blade, or even two full size blades. Any blades must all come from the same pivot end. Barlows can also come in several handle shapes. The most common shape is the regular jack, but a Barlow can also be a swell end jack, sleeve board jack, or even a curved jack. Sometimes you’ll see English made knives with extended bolsters on swayback handle shapes called Barlows, but that type doesn’t seem to have made it “across the pond”. The fact that most Barlows are in the shape of a Regular Jack has, in my experience, contributed to people misidentifying normal Jack knives as Barlows.

A Handmade Barlow by Sean Yaw

Barlows in Spirit… or in Name Only

With the rise in popularity of traditional pocket knives and slipjoints, and particularly Barlows, there has been a growth in the phenomenon of knives being misidentified as Barlows. I am fine with knives that have extended faux bolsters, often a different color of the same material or a different material than the rest of the handle (Micarta vs G10, etc.), being called Barlows. Are they purely traditional? No, but on that note I am also fine with knives using modern construction being called Barlows as long as they have a true extended bolster, like the Jack Wolf Knives Midnight Jack (and even the fully modern After Hours Jack!). I’m even okay with knives that just have aesthetic milling to give the appearance of an extended bolster being deemed Barlows, such as the LionSteel Slim Dom and Traditional Pocket Knives Lake Champlain Barlow. However, knives with a normal size bolster or no bolster at all just don’t pass the test for me. Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon to see a knife that is vaguely shaped like a Regular Jack to be called a Barlow, especially when modern knife companies take cues from traditional patterns. I understand that definitions change, and that that is an integral part of the evolution of language, but I think it worth holding onto the distinction of a Barlow at the least having the appearance of an extended bolster.

Two Barlows in Spirit

A Barlow in Every Pocket

Now that you know what a Barlow is, I hope you decide to try one. A Great Eastern Cutlery TC Barlow brought me into the world of traditional knives, but the enthusiasm and wealth of knowledge shared by people (such as great patrons of the Barlow like Charlie Campagna, who is always sharing traditional knife wisdom such as on the Catch Bit Podcast) about this classic pattern is one of the main things that has kept me so engaged. If you find yourself hooked by the allure of this classic pattern, make sure you check out and apply to the Barlow Bearcat Club.

Barlow Bearcat Club

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I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts

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The Knife Buyer’s Inspection List; 6 Things to Check When You Receive a New Knife

So, you just bought yourself a shiny new knife and want to make sure it’s up to snuff. In this article I’ll describe the 6 points that I check when receiving a knife. These characteristics cover the bulk of what decides where a knife lands on the spectrum from abysmally terrible to mythically epic.

#1 Edge Exposure

Checking for edge exposure, most commonly in the form of a proud tip, is one of the first things I do when inspecting a knife. This is because it is a practical concern; if the edge is exposed you can accidentally cut yourself when reaching in your pocket for the knife etc. Most commonly on slipjoints, but also sometimes on modern knives, this issue rears its ugly head as a proud tip. A tip is proud when it sits above the blade well enough that it can be caught on a fingernail without actually opening the blade. This issue is all too common in my opinion, and those who watch my videos know I am hounded by proud tips on otherwise perfect GECs. Modern knives can also have proud tips, but I find it to be quite uncommon. However, modern knives, often having pass through handles (no backspring / a gap at the spine side of the blade well also), can sometimes have edge exposure along that spine side of the handle. This happens when the blade is too tall for the blade well and the edge sits close enough to the back of the handle that you can contact it when running a finger along the back of the handle. Both of these types of edge exposure have their fixes; a proud tip can often be alleviated by dropping the kick, and the edge can be sharpened back from the handle opening. However, I prefer not to have to modify my knives for them to be safe (even if actual injury is unlikely) so these issues are sometimes deal breakers.

#2 Edge Damage

Edge damage on a new knife is most commonly caused by blade rap, but can also be a defect in sharpening. Blade rap is when the edge hits some part of the handle upon closing. On slipjoints the edge often hits the backspring, especially at the spring pin hump, and on modern knives the edge sometimes hits the backspacer or a standoff. I would also consider the edge hitting the sides of the blade well blade rap, but that is covered more in depth by the next point. The edge hitting the backspring can cause varying levels of damage to the edge, from a barely perceptible flat area to a full on roll. No matter the amount of damage done, blade rap diminishes the utility of the knife and is a defect. That said, note that some traditional knife patterns, notably from France, are designed to have the edge rest on the backspring so as to eliminate the tip becoming proud through multiple sharpenings. Less commonly, some knives might come with edge damage not related to blade rap. This type of edge damage can be due to a poor sharpening job from the factory or from damage in shipping. As a knife’s purpose is to cut, the edge should arrive to the buyer without damage.

#3 Blade Centering

The title pretty much says it all here; is the blade centered in the blade well? Some people put a lot of emphasis on this point because they strongly prefer the aesthetics of a centered blade, which is fine if that matters to you. However, an uncentered blade can be indicative of other issues such as blade play (discussed in the next point), a bent or unevenly ground blade, or a warped handle. Those are more practical issues rather than aesthetic. Of course, if a blade is so off centered that it rubs on the handle liners or actually hits the edge on the liner upon closing that is a definite defect. The blade should not be defaced or the edge damaged every time the knife is closed.

#4 Lockup

Most modern folding knives lock, and the lock should function securely when received. The lock should hold the blade open without significant play, or movement, in any direction (for most lock types). You can test for blade play by opening the knife then grasping the blade from the spine side, being careful to keep your hand far from the edge, and try to wiggle the blade side to side and forward and back. Another test that many do is a spine whack test. A spine whack test is when you strike the spine of the locked blade against a hard surface, such as a piece of wood, to check that it doesn’t unlock. Many manufacturers discourage this test, and it is a test that should be done with the utmost care and emphasis on safety (NEVER hold the knife so your hand is in the way of the blade if it did fold) if done at all. Of course, non locking knives can’t be tested for lockup but you can still test for side to side blade play. Having secure lock up is an important aspect of a good knife, as poor lockup can range from irritating to downright dangerous.

#5 Action

Action is the term used for the actual opening and closing of a knife. Folding knife action has come a long way in the last decade or two. Now even extremely budget friendly knives often come with glassy smooth opening and closing. Many knives have ball bearing washers in their pivots which allow for very low friction. Some look for “drop closed smooth” meaning that the blade drops closed by its own weight when unlocked, while others prefer a more deliberate closing motion be required. What an ideal action looks like is up to each individual, but I think a knife’s action should both work practically and be enjoyable.

#6 Fit and Finish

Finally, the knife should be inspected for general fit and finish. So what is fit and finish? It’s the sum of how precisely the parts of the knife are fit together and how well each part is finished. This could include the meeting of the scales, or covers, of the handle with the bolsters or with the liners. It could include the evenness of the finish on the handle and blade; the lack or presence of machining marks etc. Fit and finish is another area where budget knives have made huge strides to close the gap with premium knives over the last few years. Most modern knives of $50 and up should have few if any obvious imperfections in the fitment of the parts and finish of the surfaces upon a cursory glance. That said, some knives are expected to have slight imperfections due to the nature of their manufacture. For example, many traditional slipjoint knives are expected to have minor flaws and individual character because they’re made using traditional methods. Even Great Eastern Cutlery, the premier American traditional knife manufacturer, knives are expected to have a slight deformation in a pin or gap around the shield every now and then. Ultimately, the level of fit and finish that one finds acceptable at each price point is a personal decision, but it is still worth considering.

BONUS; First Impression

There’s another characteristic of a knife that I think is worth considering but that didn’t make the list; the visceral first impression it gives you. Often, as a knife enthusiast, opening a knife and handling it for the first time will give you a strong feeling. Whether positive or negative, this feeling often has nothing to do with the objective qualities of the knife outlined above. Even though this first impression might not be based on any real practical characteristics, it’s still important to one’s enjoyment of a knife. We as knife enthusiasts deserve to be thrilled every time we get a new knife, so don’t ignore your first impression of a new purchase.

For those of us who make knives a hobby, we deserve to get a good value for our hard earned money. That’s why I think it’s important to check each knife you receive for these 6 key points of quality, and also to consider your first impression. If a knife passes all these checks, congratulations; you have yourself a great every day carry tool or collection piece in your new knife!

P.s. I used videos that touch heavily on the discussed characteristic here in lieu of pictures because I think they do a better job of showing the issue in a realistic manner.

I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts

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The Cotton Sampler; Obscure Pattern with an Unclear History

One of the most engaging aspects of traditional slipjoint knives is the myriad of unique patterns that have been made, and a great example can be found in the Cotton Sampler. The Cotton Sampler is a relatively little known and sparsely made pattern that has, like many traditional patterns, an obscure history. In this article I’ll discuss some of the pattern’s variations, possible background, and current versions.

Companion Video!

Description

There are two distinct blade shapes and corresponding handle shapes that have been given the name “Cotton Sampler”. One type of Cotton Sampler has a backward curved handle, like a swayback, (though some versions have a straight frame) and a hefty straight edged blade with a straight spine and abrupt angle toward the tip. This type looks very similar to a typical harvester or sailor knife, but often with an even taller blade. The other, more unique, type has a forward curved handle and a blade that deserves its own sentence to describe. The blade on this type has a long unground ricasso, often around an inch long, between the kick and the edge itself, which curves abruptly toward a small clipped tip. It makes for a blade that looks like a squatter spay shape with an unground extension from the handle. While both these shapes have been called Cotton Samplers, today the term is almost exclusively used for the latter style.

Schatt & Morgan Example of the Swayback Type

History

So, what’s the story behind these interesting knives? Well, it seems the pattern shapes themselves likely predate the name. The first style described above is just a slight variation of an ancient pattern that can be found in the earliest Sheffield pattern books (and likely much earlier, as some Roman knives have similar designs). It’s a classic agriculture pattern well suited for the pull cuts prevalent in those uses. On the other hand, the second style is less typical. The earliest example with this unusual blade shape can be found in a 1903 Schatt & Morgan catalogue, but isn’t identified as a Cotton Sampler. It actually has a rounded unground area, rather than the flat type seen on later examples, that is heavily reminiscent to finger choils on modern knives (at least to my eyes). Considering that a knife of the same shape in a 1938 Maher & Grosh catalogue is identified as a “Skinning Knife”, I think it is likely that this version of the Cotton Sampler pattern started as a sportsman’s knife and was later repurposed for agricultural use. That said, I have seen an explanation of the unusual blade shape proposed in several places. Apparently the tall blade with abrupt edge is used to cut into a bale of cotton and act like a spoon to extract a sample (hence the name), and the flat unground area is used to rub the cotton fibers to somehow ascertain the quality of the product. While it’s not my place or intention to claim what is or isn’t fact in this notoriously murky realm of knife history, I find it likely that the previously described use evolved to fit an already existing pattern and then that use influenced the evolution of the pattern itself.

Schatt & Morgan 1903 Catalogue

Availability

Unfortunately, the Cotton Sampler is not one of the more widely available patterns. Queen made both versions over the years before going out of business. Great Eastern Cutlery has made the latter version I described but, like most of their patterns, it has become highly collectible and difficult to find since 2013 (the only time it was made). The only company I’m aware of that offers an array of widely available Cotton Samplers is Rough Ryder.

AMKCA Club Knives

Conclusion

My interest in the Cotton Sampler pattern was piqued by an unexpected addition to my collection. I attend the Allegheny Mountain Knife Collectors Association club, and one of the members has been a supporter and a huge asset to my journey into vintage traditional knives. He knows I am a GEC enthusiast and collect the AMKCA club knives, so he offered to sell me his favorite of the club knives at a fair price. It happened to be the 2013 GEC #74 Cotton Sampler. I agreed happily, both because it’s a great knife unlike anything in my collection and because I appreciated that he thought of me when he decided to sell the knife. I have enjoyed getting to know this pattern through my example and to display it with my other AMKCA knives. While I haven’t been able to find as much historical information on the Cotton Sampler, I’ve still enjoyed getting to know it. I hope you’re able to check out this unique pattern also!

GEC’s Interpretation of the Cotton Sampler

Sources

History of the Cotton Sampler on BladeForums

What is Cotton Sampling on BladeForums

Cotton Sampler Pattern on KnifeMagazine

Cotton Sampler Question on AAPK

Cotton Sampler Mini Review on BladeForums

Great Eastern Cutlery Production Totals

I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts

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Great Eastern Cutlery Laser Etched #23 from 2006; A Case of Misunderstood Origins?

There has been a Great Eastern Cutlery knife that I’ve always wished I could get, but never thought I would. It was a particular #23 Pioneer Trapper from the first run of knives GEC made in 2006 with smooth white bone covers laser etched with “GEC” and oak leaves (the oak leaves to match the Great Eastern Cutlery brand’s acorn shield). I always understood these to be a small run within the overall first run made at GEC’s inception, and the first knives that went to consumers. A picture of a paper had been circulated online that designated the knife as being a small run of 25 knives given to friends and family. It also is the first knife that had laser etching on the handle, which GEC has done a few times since. On top of all of those things that made it special from a collector’s standpoint, I also just like the smooth white bone and laser etch from an aesthetic standpoint.

These knives never seemed to become available until, for some inexplicable reason (cough the insane secondary market??? cough) the last month of 2020. In less than a week I missed two: one on eBay because it sold for more than I could bid, and one on AAPK because it sold before the buyer got back to me with pictures showing the condition. So I posted in search of it, and within another week had multiple offers to my great shock and excitement.

I took one of the offers and was really happy to finally have a true grail in my collection. That said, I did sell a couple knives to help with the transaction including the 2006 #23 from the below video. Also, the knife has some gaps between the backsprings and center liner, but I’m happy with the deal because it’s still a great knife and I knew about the gaps because the seller was upfront about them. After getting the knife, I decided I wanted to get the full scoop on its history and reached out to Great Eastern Cutlery.

Unfortunately, their reply wasn’t what I had hoped. They said “there really is no story to it”, it wasn’t made for friends and family, and he doesn’t recall a paper going with the knife. I was relatively deflated by this news, and decided to do some digging to find the paper I had seen posted in relation to the knife. As you can see below, the actual paper is not related to this specific knife but looks to be a general advertising flyer from the early days of GEC. It does have a handwritten note from Ken Daniels, once co-owner, that claims it is part of a 25 knife run given to friends and family. Unfortunately, since it’s not anywhere close to an official document and from someone who left GEC early, I don’t think it can be taken as reliable information. So it seems that the history of this knife was not what I had believed, and it provides a good lesson to not always believe what you hear on the internet.

  • Screenshots from Bill McGuire

This knife was a grail for me for a long time, and I won’t deny that I’m disappointed it doesn’t hold the history and significance I had thought. I also am disappointed that the 2006 #23 I sold to buy it was actually, presumably, an earlier made knife (due to its serial number and how they did serialization in the first run). They also said that they would prefer not to fix the gaps because they would have to mark it as repaired and “it is worth more the way it is”. While I understand that that’s true, I am not sure I wouldn’t rather it be made perfect for my own enjoyment even if it had to be marked as repaired and lose value. That said, the knife is still a great piece. I enjoy the laser etch, and have always loved GEC’s smooth white bone. It will also go better with my 2007 #73 in Casein than my previous 2006 #23 did. So although it’s not what I had hoped, it’s still a knife I’m happy to have in my collection.

I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts

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Glitter Gold / Goldstone Knife Handles are Garish (in a Good Way!) but Steeped in History

Too Long ; Didn’t Read? Here’s the companion video!

Glitter Gold handles tend to illicit one of two reactions from people; “I love it” or “That’s awful”. They’re eye catching in a way that some enjoy and others can’t stand, but they have a surprisingly longstanding place in the history of pocketknives.

First off, synthetic materials have been used for knife handle covers for longer than you might imagine. The first synthetic (or plastic like) replacements for wood, bone, ivory, etc. began being introduced in the late 19th century. By the beginning of the 20th century, when American knife manufacturing was coming into its own and outgrowing its predecessors in Solingen and Sheffield, companies like Case were offering knives handled in various colors of celluloid. Celluloid is another name for Parkesine, one of the first of the synthetic handle materials. Celluloid was used extensively by the knife industry, but now has become known for its flamability and tendency to oxidize and ruin carbon steel knives. However, one of the types of celluloid that was first used, as early as the 1920’s and definitely before 1940, was a type layered with gold glitter that became known as Goldstone.

This type of handle cover with a faux gold look is one that has been done in many ways by many companies. Interestingly, a 1935 article in Popular Science even provided directions on how to make your own glitter gold (or goldstone) celluloid covers for your pocket knife, so it must have been a popular type of handle. In the past companies like Winchester, Western, and Queen have also made knives with glitter handles. When Jim Parker took over Case he had some collector sets produced in Goldstone. Unfortunately, many of those covers went on to curl and deform, which may have soured some on the handle material. Recently, Rough Ryder produced a series of knives with covers consisting of gold flake in clear acrylic, which I would include in this type of handle. Case is currently producing knives with a silver glitter handle cover that they call Stardust Kirinite. So this flashy type of cover has been on many pocket knives from various companies over long decades.

Great Eastern Cutlery has also made their own version of knives with glitter gold handles. GEC’s versions are made with acrylic rather than celluloid. Acrylic is a very stable material, with none of the major issues that come with celluloid like flamability and outgassing. That said, in my experience, acrylics can shrink and swell depending on the conditions in which they’re kept. Thankfully, however, I have not experienced any such issues with the Glitter Gold acrylic.

In 2011 GEC created the Good as Gold series. There used to be a page on their site about the series, but it seems to have been taken down. In fact, it looks to me like they are moving away from the idea of having distinct series of knives, outside of their normal brands, although they continue to make the Beaver Tail and Banana knives. Interestingly, at least one knife was made with the Good as Gold tube label but without Glitter Gold Acrylic handles, and you can find an article on that knife at this link. They made a pretty good number of patterns with the Glitter Gold covers that year: #23 Square End Jumbo Trapper, #48 Slim Trapper, #56 Dogleg Jack, #62 Easy Pocket Congress, #65 Ben Hogan, and #66 Moose. Since then, as far as I can tell and check against the (unofficial but extremely helpful) GEC database created by Darren Orrell, the only knives they’ve made with Glitter Gold Acrylic handles were Special Factory Assembly models made for the 2018 Rendezvous. These consisted of two versions of the #78 American Jack, 8 made of each, a single spear bladed version and a spear and pen two bladed version. So, although they made knives with Glitter Gold handles in several patterns in 2011, overall it is a relatively obscure series for GEC.

Great Eastern Cutlery sourced their Glitter Gold Acrylic, I believe, from Masecraft Supply. Masecraft Supply seems to be out of the material. EDIT: Bill Howard let me know that GEC’s glitter gold was sourced not from Masecraft, but from Galaxy Plastic. I was told that the Glitter Gold Acrylic GEC has on hand is the last of their supply, and when it’s gone it’s gone for good. With that in mind, and considering that GEC has only made 16 knives in Glitter Gold Acrylic since 2011, if you find one available for sale I suggest picking it up if it fits your budget. They sometimes go for surprisingly low prices, even staying close to original retail. I always have one eye out for them!

I like a little flashiness in my knives, even to the point of garishness, but I know not all do. However, if you’re a fan of traditional knives then you probably appreciate their history. Glitter gold type synthetic handles have a long and interesting history starting in the early days of the American knife industry. As I talked about in another article, knives have always been appreciated for their aesthetics. Some people just like to go bold and bright, and glitter gold is the perfect solution!

I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts