Tag: Knife Information

Posted on

What is a Barlow? The Enigmatic Pocket Knife Pattern Revealed

I love Barlows. A Barlow is what ignited my interest in traditional pocket knives, and the main focus of my collecting to this day. I’m not alone; many knife enthusiasts consider the Barlow to be among the best patterns, and even non enthusiasts often know the name. But what actually is a Barlow? What makes a knife a Barlow… or not a Barlow?

One of the Best Recent Barlows, the GEC 2AB, and a Barlow Bearcat Club Slip by Lynch Leather

I Like Big Bolsters and I Cannot Lie

The defining characteristic of the Barlow pattern is an elongated bolster. More specifically, the rule is typically given as the pivot end bolster being 1/3 the total handle length. A Barlow has no end cap, or butt end bolster. The Great Eastern Cutlery Barlows (so far….) have all held true to this rule, with the following bolster to handle length percentages: #14 36%, #15 36%, #25 33%, #77 36%, #86 35%. There is also the so-called Grandaddy Barlow, which is a larger and, particularly, longer version of the Barlow. While Grandaddy Barlows have extended bolsters as compared to other similarly sized knives, their sheer size would make a full 1/3 length bolster less aesthetically appealing. That said, the large Barlows GEC has made still stick close to the 1/3 rule, with the Northwoods Madison being 31% and the Remington “The Cowboy” at 29%. Case Barlow bolsters are also around 35%. Where does the percentage cutoff lie? How short is too short? It’s tough to say, but usually easy to see. For example, the currently being released GEC #78 Bullet End Barlow doesn’t indisputably make the cut to my eye, and it is around 26%. So the most distinctive feature of a Barlow is the extended Bolster.

TL;DR? A Succinct Infographic

Big Bolster = Big Durability & Big Aesthetics

So, why the extended bolster? The answer usually given is that it results in a stronger and more durable knife. The bolster is what the pivot pin is peened or riveted into, and maybe the extra metal allows for a more secure hold by the “mushrooming” from being hammered. Alternatively, the additional metal might allow for a more rigid handle and in turn less likelihood of the knife pulling apart. By moving the cover material, usually a much less durable material than the metal bolster, away from the pivot there is less flex and therefore wear at the transition between the bolsters and cover material or on the covers themselves. A more durable knife was an important feature when the Barlow was mostly seen as an affordable working tool. The extended bolster certainly also adds an undeniably unique aesthetic. I think this visual appeal is as much a reason for the extended bolster as the durability, at least among collectors. The extended bolster calls back to the golden era of traditional pocket knives, they’re place in history, and a time when they were ubiquitous as every day tools. No matter the original intent of the extended bolster, it is the defining characteristic of the Barlow and a recognizable hallmark among pocket knife patterns.

Most of GEC’s Barlow Patterns

Variety is the Spice of Life… and Barlows?

While the extended bolster is a necessity, almost everything else about the Barlow can vary. Barlows have come in basically every blade shape (Clip Point, Spear Point, Sheepfoot, Wharncliffe, Drop Point, Spey, Razor, etc. etc.), though I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Hawkbill Barlow. Additionally, they can have a main blade and secondary, usually a pen blade, or even two full size blades. Any blades must all come from the same pivot end. Barlows can also come in several handle shapes. The most common shape is the regular jack, but a Barlow can also be a swell end jack, sleeve board jack, or even a curved jack. Sometimes you’ll see English made knives with extended bolsters on swayback handle shapes called Barlows, but that type doesn’t seem to have made it “across the pond”. The fact that most Barlows are in the shape of a Regular Jack has, in my experience, contributed to people misidentifying normal Jack knives as Barlows.

A Handmade Barlow by Sean Yaw

Barlows in Spirit… or in Name Only

With the rise in popularity of traditional pocket knives and slipjoints, and particularly Barlows, there has been a growth in the phenomenon of knives being misidentified as Barlows. I am fine with knives that have extended faux bolsters, often a different color of the same material or a different material than the rest of the handle (Micarta vs G10, etc.), being called Barlows. Are they purely traditional? No, but on that note I am also fine with knives using modern construction being called Barlows as long as they have a true extended bolster, like the Jack Wolf Knives Midnight Jack (and even the fully modern After Hours Jack!). I’m even okay with knives that just have aesthetic milling to give the appearance of an extended bolster being deemed Barlows, such as the LionSteel Slim Dom and Traditional Pocket Knives Lake Champlain Barlow. However, knives with a normal size bolster or no bolster at all just don’t pass the test for me. Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon to see a knife that is vaguely shaped like a Regular Jack to be called a Barlow, especially when modern knife companies take cues from traditional patterns. I understand that definitions change, and that that is an integral part of the evolution of language, but I think it worth holding onto the distinction of a Barlow at the least having the appearance of an extended bolster.

Two Barlows in Spirit

A Barlow in Every Pocket

Now that you know what a Barlow is, I hope you decide to try one. A Great Eastern Cutlery TC Barlow brought me into the world of traditional knives, but the enthusiasm and wealth of knowledge shared by people (such as great patrons of the Barlow like Charlie Campagna, who is always sharing traditional knife wisdom such as on the Catch Bit Podcast) about this classic pattern is one of the main things that has kept me so engaged. If you find yourself hooked by the allure of this classic pattern, make sure you check out and apply to the Barlow Bearcat Club.

Barlow Bearcat Club

By clicking submit, you agree to share your email address with the site owner and Mailchimp to receive marketing, updates, and other emails from the site owner. Use the unsubscribe link in those emails to opt out at any time.

Processing…
Success! You're on the list.

I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts

Posted on

The Knife Buyer’s Inspection List; 6 Things to Check When You Receive a New Knife

So, you just bought yourself a shiny new knife and want to make sure it’s up to snuff. In this article I’ll describe the 6 points that I check when receiving a knife. These characteristics cover the bulk of what decides where a knife lands on the spectrum from abysmally terrible to mythically epic.

#1 Edge Exposure

Checking for edge exposure, most commonly in the form of a proud tip, is one of the first things I do when inspecting a knife. This is because it is a practical concern; if the edge is exposed you can accidentally cut yourself when reaching in your pocket for the knife etc. Most commonly on slipjoints, but also sometimes on modern knives, this issue rears its ugly head as a proud tip. A tip is proud when it sits above the blade well enough that it can be caught on a fingernail without actually opening the blade. This issue is all too common in my opinion, and those who watch my videos know I am hounded by proud tips on otherwise perfect GECs. Modern knives can also have proud tips, but I find it to be quite uncommon. However, modern knives, often having pass through handles (no backspring / a gap at the spine side of the blade well also), can sometimes have edge exposure along that spine side of the handle. This happens when the blade is too tall for the blade well and the edge sits close enough to the back of the handle that you can contact it when running a finger along the back of the handle. Both of these types of edge exposure have their fixes; a proud tip can often be alleviated by dropping the kick, and the edge can be sharpened back from the handle opening. However, I prefer not to have to modify my knives for them to be safe (even if actual injury is unlikely) so these issues are sometimes deal breakers.

#2 Edge Damage

Edge damage on a new knife is most commonly caused by blade rap, but can also be a defect in sharpening. Blade rap is when the edge hits some part of the handle upon closing. On slipjoints the edge often hits the backspring, especially at the spring pin hump, and on modern knives the edge sometimes hits the backspacer or a standoff. I would also consider the edge hitting the sides of the blade well blade rap, but that is covered more in depth by the next point. The edge hitting the backspring can cause varying levels of damage to the edge, from a barely perceptible flat area to a full on roll. No matter the amount of damage done, blade rap diminishes the utility of the knife and is a defect. That said, note that some traditional knife patterns, notably from France, are designed to have the edge rest on the backspring so as to eliminate the tip becoming proud through multiple sharpenings. Less commonly, some knives might come with edge damage not related to blade rap. This type of edge damage can be due to a poor sharpening job from the factory or from damage in shipping. As a knife’s purpose is to cut, the edge should arrive to the buyer without damage.

#3 Blade Centering

The title pretty much says it all here; is the blade centered in the blade well? Some people put a lot of emphasis on this point because they strongly prefer the aesthetics of a centered blade, which is fine if that matters to you. However, an uncentered blade can be indicative of other issues such as blade play (discussed in the next point), a bent or unevenly ground blade, or a warped handle. Those are more practical issues rather than aesthetic. Of course, if a blade is so off centered that it rubs on the handle liners or actually hits the edge on the liner upon closing that is a definite defect. The blade should not be defaced or the edge damaged every time the knife is closed.

#4 Lockup

Most modern folding knives lock, and the lock should function securely when received. The lock should hold the blade open without significant play, or movement, in any direction (for most lock types). You can test for blade play by opening the knife then grasping the blade from the spine side, being careful to keep your hand far from the edge, and try to wiggle the blade side to side and forward and back. Another test that many do is a spine whack test. A spine whack test is when you strike the spine of the locked blade against a hard surface, such as a piece of wood, to check that it doesn’t unlock. Many manufacturers discourage this test, and it is a test that should be done with the utmost care and emphasis on safety (NEVER hold the knife so your hand is in the way of the blade if it did fold) if done at all. Of course, non locking knives can’t be tested for lockup but you can still test for side to side blade play. Having secure lock up is an important aspect of a good knife, as poor lockup can range from irritating to downright dangerous.

#5 Action

Action is the term used for the actual opening and closing of a knife. Folding knife action has come a long way in the last decade or two. Now even extremely budget friendly knives often come with glassy smooth opening and closing. Many knives have ball bearing washers in their pivots which allow for very low friction. Some look for “drop closed smooth” meaning that the blade drops closed by its own weight when unlocked, while others prefer a more deliberate closing motion be required. What an ideal action looks like is up to each individual, but I think a knife’s action should both work practically and be enjoyable.

#6 Fit and Finish

Finally, the knife should be inspected for general fit and finish. So what is fit and finish? It’s the sum of how precisely the parts of the knife are fit together and how well each part is finished. This could include the meeting of the scales, or covers, of the handle with the bolsters or with the liners. It could include the evenness of the finish on the handle and blade; the lack or presence of machining marks etc. Fit and finish is another area where budget knives have made huge strides to close the gap with premium knives over the last few years. Most modern knives of $50 and up should have few if any obvious imperfections in the fitment of the parts and finish of the surfaces upon a cursory glance. That said, some knives are expected to have slight imperfections due to the nature of their manufacture. For example, many traditional slipjoint knives are expected to have minor flaws and individual character because they’re made using traditional methods. Even Great Eastern Cutlery, the premier American traditional knife manufacturer, knives are expected to have a slight deformation in a pin or gap around the shield every now and then. Ultimately, the level of fit and finish that one finds acceptable at each price point is a personal decision, but it is still worth considering.

BONUS; First Impression

There’s another characteristic of a knife that I think is worth considering but that didn’t make the list; the visceral first impression it gives you. Often, as a knife enthusiast, opening a knife and handling it for the first time will give you a strong feeling. Whether positive or negative, this feeling often has nothing to do with the objective qualities of the knife outlined above. Even though this first impression might not be based on any real practical characteristics, it’s still important to one’s enjoyment of a knife. We as knife enthusiasts deserve to be thrilled every time we get a new knife, so don’t ignore your first impression of a new purchase.

For those of us who make knives a hobby, we deserve to get a good value for our hard earned money. That’s why I think it’s important to check each knife you receive for these 6 key points of quality, and also to consider your first impression. If a knife passes all these checks, congratulations; you have yourself a great every day carry tool or collection piece in your new knife!

P.s. I used videos that touch heavily on the discussed characteristic here in lieu of pictures because I think they do a better job of showing the issue in a realistic manner.

I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts