I carried my ProTech Godfather leading up to and some of this past week. It’s a long and mean looking out the side automatic. It has a classic design that just looks stellar, with a coffin-esque handle and a dagger style blade. The action is incredible; it thwacks out with authority. That’s all said, it has a relatively thickly ground blade and a needle point tip. I got it as a gift to myself for hitting a big personal milestone, so it also holds sentimental value for me. It might not be the most utilitarian knife in my collection, but it sure is one of the coolest.
Jack Wolf Knives Timber Jack Review
It’s exciting to see custom knife makers like Tracy LaRock working with Jack Wolf Knives. As the largest slipjoint from JWK so far, the Timber Jack comes with a hefty blade and a sturdy spring. No surprise, being a Jack Wolf Knife, it is made superbly. Check out my review video below.
Barn and Brook Feather Knife Review
You can’t beat a handmade in the USA fixed blade with a unique design for ~$75. Is it the most practical knife out there? No, but sometimes practicality isn’t the point. Check out my video on the Barn and Brook Feather Knife below.
Civivi Sendy Slippy & Sencut Sylor Review
The Sendy Slippy is an interesting take on a modern slipjoint. I like the design, but it could use a stronger spring for sure. The Sylor is another high value per dollar knife from Sencut. Check out my video on them below.
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If you search for bolt action pens, Tactile Turn will inevitably be one of the most discussed and recommended brands you find. They are made in the USA, have a great reputation for quality, and offer their unique namesake machined finish. However, when I tried to decide which model to choose, I found that comparison reviews were surprisingly scarce… so I’ve written this article (plus long form review and short comparison videos) to provide just that; a thorough review and comparison of Tactile Turn’s bolt action pens. Read on to learn about the different lengths, widths, and materials Tactile Turn offers.
In this Tactile Turn Bolt Action Pen Comparison Review
TL;DR? Short Tactile Turn Bolt Action Pen Comparison Video
Lengths: Standard, Short, & Mini
Tactile Turn’s bolt action pens come in three lengths: Standard, Short, and Mini. The two main differences between the lengths are the pen refills they take and… the length.
Portability
The Standard, Short, and Mini are 5.6″, 5.1″, and 4.4″ respectively. I think all three lengths have their place. The Standard is the most similar in length to your typical pens like a Bic Round Stic or Cristal, but is a little long for pocket carry in my opinion. In my carry it sometimes jabbed into my leg when bending over or sitting. The Mini is the best for carrying in an EDC pouch and just taking up the least space, but might feel a bit short in the hand when writing if you have wide hands like me. The Short feels portable enough, while still offering enough purchase for comfortable writing.
Refill Compatibility
The Standard takes Pilot G2 sized refills, the Short takes Parker sized refills, and the Mini takes Pilot G2 Mini refills. You can refer to Tactile Turn’s refill guide HERE, though it’s not exhaustive (for example, the Standard also can use UniBall One refills, which are very nice). There are a good number of G2 sized refills out there that fit in the standard, and they are easy to find in places like Walmart and Target. The Parker size of the Short allows for a veritable plethora of compatible refills, though they might not be as easy to find in brick and mortar stores. On the other hand, the Mini seems to ONLY take Pilot G2 Mini refills. Technically, they’re “refills,” but you can’t seem to buy them on their own. You have to purchase full pens and discard the bodies (it’s not as sinister as it sounds, but I have to admit I don’t love the idea of wasting so much plastic). Honestly, you’re going to be able to find a refill you like in any of these sizes. There are plenty of options for the Standard and Short to find something that fits your writing style. The G2 Minis write nicely just like the full sized G2 , although I did have one leak (from carrying in cold temperatures, I am guessing). One big positive of the Short length for me is that it can take Fisher pressurized refills, using the adapter that they come with when purchased as refills. I have used Fisher Space Pens extensively, and like the versatility of their ink. So, while they all offer perfectly usable options when it comes to refills, I prefer the short length here also.
Widths: Normal & Slim
Tactile Turn actually offers three widths, as they also make a thick body, but I only have the normal and slim to compare currently. Aside from the obvious difference in thickness, the slim and normal widths come with different clips.
Ergonomics
The normal width is similar to a Sharpie, whereas the slim is closer to a standard pen or pencil (such as a Bic Cristal). I think many prefer the normal thickness, considering it easier to write with, and I notice a general preference for thicker barrels among pen enthusiasts. That said, the slim was created in response to “the biggest request we’ve gotten over the past few years”. I think I prefer the ergonomics of the slim for my personal writing grip, though I don’t have a problem with the normal width. The slim also fits better in an EDC pouch, if that’s your preferred carry method.
Clip; Bent vs Machined
The normal width comes with a classic bent clip, while the slim has a machined clip. The bent clip attaches with a ring that is screwed into the handle between the cap and the barrel, whereas the machined clip screws into the side of the barrel with Torx screws. Machined clips are a big thing in the knife world, but they’re not a make or break point for me. I do appreciate the extra work that goes into the machined clip, but I like the look of both. The bent clip seems to be easier to put into and pull out of the pocket, while still offering plenty retention. Overall, they’re both good clips; if I had to choose I would probably go with the bent, but it’s not something that I think needs to factor greatly into the choice between a normal or slim width pen.
Materials: Titanium, Bronze, & Copper
Tactile Turn offers pens in many different materials. From plain stainless steel to exotic zirconium, there’s sure to be something that catches your eye. I will be comparing three of their typical offerings: titanium, bronze, and copper. The main differences between these three materials are the hardness, weight, and oxidation potential.
Durability
Titanium is generally the hardest, and therefore the least likely to show scratches and dents, at a Brinell Hardness of around 300. (note: all these hardnesses depend on the specific alloy used, which I don’t think Tactile Turn publishes) Bronze is still relatively resistant at 75-220 BH, and I didn’t see any evidence of wear (aside from patina) in a few months of use. Copper is significantly softer, at around 35-90 BH. I noticed this softness clearly. My copper Mini developed some dings and scratches in the machining pretty quickly from carrying it next to other things. Also, the clip developed some play due to the copper deforming on either side of it from carrying it in my pocket. I was able to fix this with a simple application of super glue, but Will at Tactile Turn said they’re happy to make it right the few times this happens (I get the feeling they’re happy to make sure their customer is happy). They also offer a Lifetime Warranty on all their pens.
Weight
Titanium is the lightest of the three, at about half the density of both copper and bronze. I will say, though my research indicates copper and bronze have a very similar density (and therefore weight), the copper somehow feels heavier. The weight probably comes down to personal preference, as I doubt any of these pens will be heavy enough to make much difference on a daily basis. Maybe you’ll prefer the titanium if you’re on an ultralight multi day backwoods hike, or the copper if you like some heft. For me, I enjoy both and it just depends if you value lightness or heft.
Patina
Finally, the subject of patina. Basically, patina is the change that comes from aging. In the case of copper and bronze, it is oxidation. Both copper and bronze begin their patina by losing luster and taking on a darker tone. After enough time and exposure, copper will turn a shade of green and bronze a shade of brown or black. Many EDC enthusiasts, especially traditional knife connoisseurs, love patina for the way it shows age and wear. Honestly, I can take it or leave it whether on knives or pens. I think it can look good sometimes, and sometimes I’d rather the tool remain the way it was when I got it.
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All of Tactile Turn’s bolt action pens, no matter the material, come with their namesake machine finish. The finish is raised circles superbly applied across the whole pen body. The finish is easy to feel but somewhat difficult to see in pictures. Also, it’s so well machined that the seam between the body and tip disappears into the finish when they’re screwed together. All this immediately gives an impression of class and attention to detail that is wholly welcome in a luxury pen.
Final Thoughts
Pens are one of man’s most basic tools. To be able to write, to store information through language, is one of the main things that allows us humans to achieve amazing feats; from building societies to designing the computer I’m writing this on. So it makes sense that every day carry enthusiasts like myself prefer to have a durable, stylish, and practical pen as part of their tool set. Will at Tactile Turn understands that desire.
Tactile Turn pens are some of the most highly regarded on the market, and for good reason as they offer just those characteristics. Whichever combination of length, width, and material you go with you’re sure to get a quality writing instrument backed by a company that’s proud of their product. Have a favorite Tactile Turn configuration, or questions about bolt action pens? Send me a message or connect on Instagram or YouTube!
Finally, I want to extend my appreciation to Will Hodges. This comparison was made possible in large part by his generosity in providing the Short Bronze and Mini Copper.
Long Form Tactile Turn Bolt Action Pen Comparison Review Video
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If you’re reading this, you’ve probably heard the term EDC… but what exactly does it mean? Well, to put it succinctly, it stands for Every Day Carry. EDC refers to the tools you carry on your person. EDC is a practice of being prepared for whatever life throws at you. However, if you dig in a little deeper you might find that there’s no universal agreement as to what EDC encompasses.
Every (Literally) Day Carry Purists
The most hardcore of gear enthusiasts will insist that it’s not EDC unless you carry it literally every day. You’ll find this sentiment in the comments of the EDC subreddit, r/EDC, of any post with tools that don’t show wear. While it’s true this is probably the original expression of EDC, and probably still the most common among the population overall, most enthusiasts vary their carry at least occasionally.
Two Mainstays (& gifts from my wife): Spyderco Ouroboros & Roadie
Everyday Carry Enthusiasts
Those who are enthusiastic enough about their carry to post online typically change their tools, making it more “everyday” carry than “EVERY” day carry. Some might change their carry randomly, some might rotate through a regular stall of choices, and most probably lie somewhere in between those two ends of the spectrum. This approach to EDC makes for a more engaging experience, though it might not allow you to get the most out of each piece of gear and can lead to excessive consumerism.
A full “Tiffany Blue” themed carry: Chris Reeve Sebenza 31 with Twice Born Customs bead, Twice Born Customs worry coin, Zero Feud C.U.P. pouch, Sean Yaw Barlow, Sage Grouse Leather slip, Gear Infusion EverRatchet Clip
(Almost) Every Day Carry Dabblers
Then there are those who don’t carry every day, let alone the same things every day, but still enjoy good tools. People who want to have a good knife for camping, or a flashlight to keep in their car for emergencies, or a good pen for journalling at home, and such. They might not carry their tools every day or everywhere, but they appreciate having them and discussing them. At least in my approximation, this is as valid an approach as the others.
Some great gear I carry, but not every day: Tactile Turn Standard Slim Bolt Action Titanium, NGMCo Middle Man Slick Not Thirsty Block Logo, Field Notes Vintage Edition
Essentially, EDC is about the appreciation, carry, and use of personal preparedness gear. You can make it their own, not only through the tools you carry but also how you carry them. No matter your job, lifestyle, or any other circumstances there’s always a way you can make Every Day Carry a part of your life. So, what is EDC to you?
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So, you just bought yourself a shiny new knife and want to make sure it’s up to snuff. In this article I’ll describe the 6 points that I check when receiving a knife. These characteristics cover the bulk of what decides where a knife lands on the spectrum from abysmally terrible to mythically epic.
#1 Edge Exposure
Checking for edge exposure, most commonly in the form of a proud tip, is one of the first things I do when inspecting a knife. This is because it is a practical concern; if the edge is exposed you can accidentally cut yourself when reaching in your pocket for the knife etc. Most commonly on slipjoints, but also sometimes on modern knives, this issue rears its ugly head as a proud tip. A tip is proud when it sits above the blade well enough that it can be caught on a fingernail without actually opening the blade. This issue is all too common in my opinion, and those who watch my videos know I am hounded by proud tips on otherwise perfect GECs. Modern knives can also have proud tips, but I find it to be quite uncommon. However, modern knives, often having pass through handles (no backspring / a gap at the spine side of the blade well also), can sometimes have edge exposure along that spine side of the handle. This happens when the blade is too tall for the blade well and the edge sits close enough to the back of the handle that you can contact it when running a finger along the back of the handle. Both of these types of edge exposure have their fixes; a proud tip can often be alleviated by dropping the kick, and the edge can be sharpened back from the handle opening. However, I prefer not to have to modify my knives for them to be safe (even if actual injury is unlikely) so these issues are sometimes deal breakers.
#2 Edge Damage
Edge damage on a new knife is most commonly caused by blade rap, but can also be a defect in sharpening. Blade rap is when the edge hits some part of the handle upon closing. On slipjoints the edge often hits the backspring, especially at the spring pin hump, and on modern knives the edge sometimes hits the backspacer or a standoff. I would also consider the edge hitting the sides of the blade well blade rap, but that is covered more in depth by the next point. The edge hitting the backspring can cause varying levels of damage to the edge, from a barely perceptible flat area to a full on roll. No matter the amount of damage done, blade rap diminishes the utility of the knife and is a defect. That said, note that some traditional knife patterns, notably from France, are designed to have the edge rest on the backspring so as to eliminate the tip becoming proud through multiple sharpenings. Less commonly, some knives might come with edge damage not related to blade rap. This type of edge damage can be due to a poor sharpening job from the factory or from damage in shipping. As a knife’s purpose is to cut, the edge should arrive to the buyer without damage.
#3 Blade Centering
The title pretty much says it all here; is the blade centered in the blade well? Some people put a lot of emphasis on this point because they strongly prefer the aesthetics of a centered blade, which is fine if that matters to you. However, an uncentered blade can be indicative of other issues such as blade play (discussed in the next point), a bent or unevenly ground blade, or a warped handle. Those are more practical issues rather than aesthetic. Of course, if a blade is so off centered that it rubs on the handle liners or actually hits the edge on the liner upon closing that is a definite defect. The blade should not be defaced or the edge damaged every time the knife is closed.
#4 Lockup
Most modern folding knives lock, and the lock should function securely when received. The lock should hold the blade open without significant play, or movement, in any direction (for most lock types). You can test for blade play by opening the knife then grasping the blade from the spine side, being careful to keep your hand far from the edge, and try to wiggle the blade side to side and forward and back. Another test that many do is a spine whack test. A spine whack test is when you strike the spine of the locked blade against a hard surface, such as a piece of wood, to check that it doesn’t unlock. Many manufacturers discourage this test, and it is a test that should be done with the utmost care and emphasis on safety (NEVER hold the knife so your hand is in the way of the blade if it did fold) if done at all. Of course, non locking knives can’t be tested for lockup but you can still test for side to side blade play. Having secure lock up is an important aspect of a good knife, as poor lockup can range from irritating to downright dangerous.
#5 Action
Action is the term used for the actual opening and closing of a knife. Folding knife action has come a long way in the last decade or two. Now even extremely budget friendly knives often come with glassy smooth opening and closing. Many knives have ball bearing washers in their pivots which allow for very low friction. Some look for “drop closed smooth” meaning that the blade drops closed by its own weight when unlocked, while others prefer a more deliberate closing motion be required. What an ideal action looks like is up to each individual, but I think a knife’s action should both work practically and be enjoyable.
#6 Fit and Finish
Finally, the knife should be inspected for general fit and finish. So what is fit and finish? It’s the sum of how precisely the parts of the knife are fit together and how well each part is finished. This could include the meeting of the scales, or covers, of the handle with the bolsters or with the liners. It could include the evenness of the finish on the handle and blade; the lack or presence of machining marks etc. Fit and finish is another area where budget knives have made huge strides to close the gap with premium knives over the last few years. Most modern knives of $50 and up should have few if any obvious imperfections in the fitment of the parts and finish of the surfaces upon a cursory glance. That said, some knives are expected to have slight imperfections due to the nature of their manufacture. For example, many traditional slipjoint knives are expected to have minor flaws and individual character because they’re made using traditional methods. Even Great Eastern Cutlery, the premier American traditional knife manufacturer, knives are expected to have a slight deformation in a pin or gap around the shield every now and then. Ultimately, the level of fit and finish that one finds acceptable at each price point is a personal decision, but it is still worth considering.
BONUS; First Impression
There’s another characteristic of a knife that I think is worth considering but that didn’t make the list; the visceral first impression it gives you. Often, as a knife enthusiast, opening a knife and handling it for the first time will give you a strong feeling. Whether positive or negative, this feeling often has nothing to do with the objective qualities of the knife outlined above. Even though this first impression might not be based on any real practical characteristics, it’s still important to one’s enjoyment of a knife. We as knife enthusiasts deserve to be thrilled every time we get a new knife, so don’t ignore your first impression of a new purchase.
For those of us who make knives a hobby, we deserve to get a good value for our hard earned money. That’s why I think it’s important to check each knife you receive for these 6 key points of quality, and also to consider your first impression. If a knife passes all these checks, congratulations; you have yourself a great every day carry tool or collection piece in your new knife!
P.s. I used videos that touch heavily on the discussed characteristic here in lieu of pictures because I think they do a better job of showing the issue in a realistic manner.
I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook!
Have you ever picked up your EDC knife for the day and realized it was duller than a trip to the DMV? Sometimes you don’t have time to break out the full fixed angle fancy sharpening system and sit down for a laborious labor of love to get that perfect apex. Sometimes you just want to get your knife back to doing what it’s made to do; cut stuff. Well I have some great news for you! Not only can you serviceably sharpen a knife without specialized tools, you probably have some options for achieving a perfectly usable edge just lying around.
Your Cup of Coffee
No, not the disposable cup from your local mega-chain coffee shop. Your normal every day stained from years of use ceramic coffee cup can actually be used to sharpen. Now, you’re going to be turning the cup upside down, so I suggest one without coffee in it. The bottoms of most ceramic mugs have a ring of exposed medium-ish grit ceramic. This ring can be used very similarly to a sharpening stone or rod. Simply draw your knife’s edge across the exposed ceramic grit at the appropriate angle until you reach an acceptable apex. Make sure there aren’t any oversized pieces of grit in the area you use so as to not create any edge damage, and make sure to use light pressure and a consistent angle. You’ll have a very passable edge and will be ready to pour your favorite brew!
Your Drive to Work
Now, to be clear, I am NOT suggesting you sharpen your knife WHILE driving. That said, when you get in the car to warm it up in the morning you can use the top edge of your window to sharpen. Similarly to a coffee mug, most car windows have an exposed area of fine-ish grit along the top edge. In my experience the grit on this top edge of car windows is significantly finer than that on coffee mugs. So use the same method, but it might take a few more passes and you might be able to achieve a little bit finer edge. Just make sure you do it sitting inside the car, otherwise you might look a little too nefarious; waving your knife menacingly in the window of an empty car. This can be a great way to keep a sharp edge even when traveling!
Your Essential Raiment
If you just need a quick touch up to bring your edge from sharp to razor sharp and wear a leather belt you have a strop at your constant disposal. While it might not make a truly dull knife sharp, a leather strop can be a great way to keep your edge sharp. Even a leather belt can be used as a strop, though I generally recommend using the back / inside side of the belt to avoid any scratches showing. Also, the inside of the belt is sometimes a rougher finished leather, which can be more effective as a strop. To use the strop, find the correct angle for the edge and pull the blade in an edge trailing orientation across the belt with light pressure along the whole edge until the knife is back to your preferred sharpness. If you want to get really wild with it you can even put a very small dab of toothpaste on the leather and smear it around to an even and very thin coating on the area you’ll use as a strop. The toothpaste will provide a little bit of polishing action, not to mention a pleasant aroma.
Dull knives don’t have to be a constant frustration when you’re short on time or specialized tools. With a little ingenuity, you can sharpen your knives using everyday items you already have around the house. Whether it’s a ceramic coffee mug, the top edge of your car window, or even a leather belt, these household items can be employed to achieve a usable edge on your knife. Just remember to use light pressure, a consistent angle, and be aware that these methods should be used as backups when a dedicated sharpener isn’t available. With these simple tips, you can get your knife back to its cutting best in no time.
I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook!
