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May 11, 2019May 12, 2019

The ONLY Review of the GEC #97 Allegheny AMKCA 2019 Club Knife on the WHOLE Internet!

TL;DR? Here’s the Knife Thoughts video to accompany this article. Don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel!

This article will tell you all you need to know about the Allegheny Mountain Knife Collectors Association 2019 club knife. To put it simply, the knife is a Great Eastern Cutlery made Northfield #97 Allegheny in Autumn Gold Jigged bone. It’s a unique knife and an extremely fine knife. This article will explain the details on how it came about, it’s makeup and quality, and my thoughts on the knife as a whole.

First off, what is the Allegheny Mountain Knife Collectors Association? The AMKCA is a knife club that meets once per month to show off knives, discuss current events in the knife world, and share the passion for knives. The membership is made up of collectors who, for the vast majority, primarily collect vintage knives. Some of the members are also interested in modern knives, but traditional slipjoints and fixed blades dominate the display boxes and knife rolls. Even with a relatively small regular attendance, at around 10 members, it’s always a treasure trove of incredible knives to “chicken eye and coon finger“. The members have also welcomed me with enthusiasm each time I’ve been able to make it to a meeting, despite my attendance being often irregular. The long time members are well acquainted with Great Eastern Cutlery, despite focusing their collections on vintage knives, and some even seem to be personal friends with Bill Howard (the owner of GEC). AMKCA was founded in late 1982 and has ordered a club knife each year since 1983, and the list of their yearly club knives is a sight to be seen for any traditional knife enthusiast. I first heard of the Allegheny Mountain Knife Collectors Association, funnily enough, by seeing their logo on a cornhole set at the GEC Rendezvous. I also met and spoke with a couple members at one of the Rendezvous I’ve attended, maybe 2016. However, I didn’t become a member until early 2018. Since then I’ve attended meetings as regularly as possible (as the meetings are the real value of being a member), including bringing my fiancee to the club’s very nice Christmas party, and I’ve also purchased the yearly club knives for both 2018 and 2019.

This year’s club knife has an interesting, and somewhat confusing, story of how it came about. At the end of 2018 the club discussed getting a 2019 knife in stag on one of GEC’s new patterns, the #97 or #29. I wasn’t able to make the January meeting due to a vacation, but at the February meeting the liaison between the club and GEC said that Christine (GEC sales manager) had suggested the new #97 Allegheny large coke bottle pattern in Smooth Yellow Bone, due to a shortage of stag large enough for that pattern, and that the club needed to decide ASAP. Due to this suggestion, and the genuine fact that GEC is very accommodating in allowing the club to order a small number of knives each year (in comparison to GEC’s recent knife run quantities), the members voted to go ahead with the #97 Allegheny in Smooth Yellow Bone with the AMKCA blade etch and bear shield on Northfield trim (the Northfield trim on this pattern included polished blade and bolsters, a saber ground blade, double pull, and lined bolsters). A little while later the president of the club messaged me to let me know that GEC had offered jigged yellow bone for the handle material, and to see what I thought of that. I was all for it, as I don’t have a jigged yellow bone handled knife.

It’s not a small knife, as this comparison to the Spyderco Native shows, but like other large coke bottles it feels great in the hand

However, soon after that GEC posted a picture of the AMKCA club knife with Autumn Gold Jigged bone handles. Now, one of the things that you get to know about Great Eastern Cutlery after following them is that Bill Howard isn’t afraid to do things his own way, and their naming of handle materials, colors, and jigging patterns can be both redundant and random. For example, they often make a handle material called Antique Yellow Jigged bone that isn’t what most people would recognize as yellow (although a little yellow peaks through where the bone meets the bolsters). Still, Autumn Gold is not Antique Yellow, let alone plain yellow. So I checked with Christine and she confirmed it was Autumn Gold, but then a few days later I got the club newsletter shown below which seems to suggest that the knife would be plain yellow bone jigged! So I was very confused. Going into this month’s meeting (5/5/19) I was excited to see what version actually came to fruition.

GEC’s image showing the AMKCA 2019 club knife ready to ship

AMKCA newsletter / order form for the 2019 club knife

What I’d expect based upon the AMKCA 2019 club knife order form / newsletter above (this image seems to have originated on eBay, if it’s yours please let me know if it’s okay to use it)

As it turned out they are handled in Autumn Gold Jigged bone after all, and wow did they turn out great! First off, despite the confusion, I like the Autumn Gold color and the jigging pattern a lot more than I expected. I don’t always love jigging, particularly when the jigging pattern is uniform rather than random, but I think the large jig marks and side to side pattern fit the knife and look traditional. The color is also more caramel malty than plain brown, as some of the Autumn Gold bone I’ve seen has been. Although I still don’t think it would be my first choice, I am really happy with how the Autumn Gold jigged bone looks.

Allegheny Mountain Knife Collectors Association 2019 Club Knife, Great Eastern Cutlery Northfield #97 Allegheny in Autumn Gold Jigged Bone with Pin

The fit and finish of this knife is plainly incredible. There are no visible gaps between the backspring and liners, even when held up to the light. This is not an easy feat to accomplish on a traditional knife, and even GEC made knives (the best production knives you can get) sometimes have small gaps. The transitions between the bone and bolsters are smooth with no catching, another area that really demonstrates the care put into hafting the knife. The backspring is flush with the liners in the open and closed positions. All three of these attributes are areas that collectors look at to assess the quality of the construction. One thing that some of the collectors at the AMKCA dislike about GEC is their “sunken pins”. Sunken pins are those that are spun and countersunk, rather than being flush with the handle and held in place by hammering the face of the pin to expand it creating a press fit (a process known as “peening”). Most vintage knives are peened and have flush pins. I started out by collecting GEC knives, so sunk pins are what I’m used to and don’t bother me.

With another saber ground clip point hunter, a Queen Hunter rehandled in Canvas Micarta

Showing the double pull and front grinds

The pile side might be even better looking

Online, on BladeForums and the like, many people had complaints about light springs and off center blades on the #97s. In their earlier years GEC was known for having bear trap springs, with pull strengths between 6 and 9 out of 10. However, recently some of their runs of knives have had significantly lighter pulls. My #43 Oregon Trapper had a light pull strength, but great walk and talk and snappy action. The same can be said for my #97 Allegheny. It’s spring is closer to a 4 than a 6, and definitely lighter than most GEC knives I’ve had, but it has superb walk and talk with snappy action and buttery smooth opening and closing. If you want to get a better feel for the action, make sure to watch my corresponding video review linked here and at my YouTube Channel (and don’t forget to subscribe!). My blade is nearly perfectly centered, and certainly nowhere near an issue. The knife also has absolutely no blade play. I was slightly concerned that there might be blade rap (the edge hitting the backspring) because larger knives like this sometimes overtravel when closing, but as far as I can tell there’s none to be seen on my Allegheny. Overall, the attention to detail and immaculate fit and finish make this one of the best made knives I’ve ever received.

2018 club knife #46 Whaler in Abalone with the 2019 club knife

The only issue I’ve found is a small one and could easily be missed; the blade etch is slightly doubled, as if the stencil moved minutely during the etching process. It’s difficult to see, but the bases of the letters and the bars/lines are doubled just enough to perceive when you look closely. This is definitely more of a nitpick than an issue, and not something that would matter in the least in use, but I try to be as honest as possible and don’t hide any negatives. The fact that this is the only issue with the knife honestly just gives more credence to its overall excellence.

One last point about the knife’s construction that came as a surprise to me; the AMKCA bear shield is glued. The Allegheny Mountain Knife Collectors Association has used a unique bear shield that resembles Bob Cargill’s three legged buffalo shield for decades. I like the look of the shield, but in checking inside this year’s club knife I noticed that there seemed to be no shield pin through the liner. I knew this meant that the shield was not pinned, but rather glued. I strongly dislike glued shields. In fact, GEC’s usual habit of ALWAYS pinning their shields is one of the things that signals their dedication to making knives the right way. Glued shields are a sign of a shortcut taken, as it’s much easier and less work intensive to just glue the shield into the handle material than to take the time to drill the hole, place the shield just right, and peen it into the handle liner. There’s just something less secure and classic feeling to a chemical bond holding the shield on rather than a mechanical bond. Now, I don’t think GEC did this as a shortcut; they had to do it, as there was no way they could pin the shields. It just so happened that another member of the AMKCA had a previous year’s club knife (also from GEC) with him that’s shield had fallen out! Upon further inspection of that dislodged shield, I found that the bear shields were not manufactured with pins. Aside from showing that GEC couldn’t have pinned the shields even if they’d wanted to, it also confirmed my dislike of glued shields. Heck, a glued shield is okay on a $10 Rough Ryder but it’s kept me from buying a $50 Case and it’s downright unacceptable on a $100+ GEC. Although I do like the look of the bear shield that AMKCA uses, I really dislike the fact that it must be glued and that fact honestly cheapens all the knives with that shield in my opinion.

All of GEC’s coke bottle patterns: #06 Pemberton, #45 Lumberjack, #97 Allegheny

All things considered, I’m very happy to have this knife in my collection. I really enjoy the coke bottle pattern, and this completes my trio of GEC coke bottle patterns they’ve made so far. If you’d like to learn more about the coke bottle pattern you can check out my article on the GEC #06 Pemberton. It’s a rare, unique, and extremely well made knife. It also represents the time I’ve spent at the Allegheny Mountain Knife Collectors club. I have decided to collect the GEC Rendezvous Special knives and the AMKCA Club knives, and I’m glad this club knife came together so well despite the confusion. If you’re interested in a Coke Bottle Hunter pattern knife, you won’t go wrong with a Great Eastern Cutlery #97 Allegheny. If you’d like to get one for yourself you can find several versions at a few of my favorite knife dealers: Blue Creek Cutlery, JSR Sports and More, and Traditional Pocket Knives. These dealers all have given me great customer service. I’m not affiliated with them, but you can let them know you heard about them on Knife Thoughts… can’t hurt! Unfortunately, if you’d like to get this specific AMKCA version you’ll have to get it on the secondary market, and even that would be difficult. I hope this article has painted a full picture of the 2019 AMKCA Club Knife Great Eastern Cutlery Northfield #97 Allegheny in Autumn Gold Jigged Bone for you, and has gotten you as excited about it as I am!

May 7, 2019May 7, 2019

The (almost) Universal Guide to Blade Shapes

It would be difficult to argue that any aspect of a knife is more important than the blade. The blade is the soul of the knife; it influences how the knife is best used, the cutting style and effectiveness of the knife, the overall aesthetic of the knife, and it can even determine the handle shape and lock style on a folding knife. Knives and knife like tools have been made for well over a million years, but the first tools most people would recognize as knives were probably made around 2,000 bce. Both stone age and early metal knife blades were usually in a dagger or leaf shape, but in the 4,000 years since man began forging metal into blades a myriad of other styles have risen to meet the innumerable cutting needs of humanity. In this article I’ll define and discuss some of the most recognizable blade shapes.

TL;DR? Check out this corresponding video from my YouTube channel!

Curved Edges

Spear Point

An extremely classic and widespread blade shape is the spear point. Spear point blade shapes can differ greatly in overall aesthetics, but they do have some specific hallmarks. The edge and spine should both curve toward the point nearer to the tip than the handle, and not continuously (like on a barong or leaf shaped blade). The curvatures of the edge and spine should be very similar, although either can be slightly more pronounced. The point should sit at or near the center line of the blade. Spear point blades can range from extremely tall or “fat” with an exaggerated curvature of the edge and spine, all the way to being extremely slender with a parallel edge and spine up until an abrupt curve to the point. I personally really enjoy the spear point for its general utility; it usually is ground to slice well but can still pierce effectively, and it offers both straight and curved edge portions. I also appreciate the relative symmetry of spear points and resulting aesthetic.

The spear point name comes from the shape of a traditional western style spear with a point protruding in line with the handle and an equal curvature of both the edge and spine (or to both edges) to the point, but that specific blade shape has become more commonly known as the dagger blade shape / grind. The dagger blade shape is more of a sub-category of spear points in which the blade is ground toward both the edge and spine (or both edges) from the centerline. Although double edged knives were ubiquitous for most of the history of humanity, they have become less common with restrictive knife laws and therefore the dagger grind has also lessened in popularity. A dagger shaped blade is more often a single edged knife with the spine side only partially ground to a false edge. Another reason for this blade shape’s falling popularity is that its grind is less well suited to the daily needs of the modern knife user, which consists more of slicing cardboard and less of fighting off attackers or wild animals. Still, the dagger blade shape is a timeless design and I find it calls back to the romanticized trappings of knights and the middle ages.

Frank B Stiletto, Cold Steel FGX Balisong, Kershaw Hinderer Decimus

Another sub-category of blade shapes that has regained popularity with the rise of Spyderco is the leaf shaped blade. I say regained because what Spyderco, and now most of the industry, calls a leaf shaped blade is very similar to the traditional barong knife and many of the lithic knives used by humans for tens of thousands of years. The leaf shaped blade differs from the spear point in that it has a continuous curve of the edge and spine, rather than a more abrupt curve toward the tip end of the blade. The leaf blade shape lends itself to many uses and is one that I have used and enjoyed quite a bit, but I don’t currently have any great examples to show.

A final sub-category of spear points is the pen blade shape. The pen blade is basically a spear point as a small secondary blade. A pen blade is always a secondary blade, and can be found on many different kinds of traditional patterns. As a secondary blade the pen blade is always smaller in size than the main blade, but they can vary in size and shape across patterns.

A group of pen blades showing a wide range of variation

Drop Point

The drop point is a blade shape with an edge that curves upward to the point at a much more pronounced angle than that at which the spine curves downward to the point. If you’ve ever heard the term “belly” used in reference to a knife edge, this pronounced curve is that characteristic. The drop point is well suited for hunting and other outdoor tasks, so many traditional American fixed blades have this blade shape. Many modern one hand opening and locking knives are drop points, although in the last few years other blade shapes including those with straight edges have gained popularity, probably because modern one hand opening and locking knives developed in large part as a more convenient replacement for carrying fixed blades. On traditional knives the drop point blade shape is most often a main blade, as on the A.G. Russell Rancher shown in the picture below, or on many of GEC’s larger trapper patterns like the #73 and #23 but it can also be a secondary blade, as on the GEC Northfield #82 stockman shown in the picture below, as well as some other traditional patterns like small jacks and whittlers.

A few drop points on modern folding knives (the Kershaw Thistle is a modified drop point / sheepfoot)

A couple drop point fixed blades. A modern, Steel Will Roamer R300, and a traditional, Blind Horse Knives Woodsman Pro.

Clip Point

The clip point is a widely recognized blade shape because it has become the symbol of iconic characters such as Jim Bowie, Crocodile Dundee, and Rambo. It has a curve of the edge toward the tip end of the blade, but it is characterized by a “clipped” section of the blade on the spine side from the tip toward the handle side. The curvature and length of the clipped area of the spine can vary and, along with the degree of curvature of the edge, can make for a wide range of clip point blade shapes. There are classic clip points, slender clip points, and several other variations including saber ground clip points. I like the look of clip points and have several of them. They just look plain classic to me; it’s tough to explain but they just hit me the right way. I also find them to be quite utilitarian. They offer a solid amount of belly, but still have a very useful point due to the clipped portion. However, they’re not for everyone; my fiancee HATES the look of clip points!

Hawkbill / Talon / Pruner

Another very traditional blade shape that has several different names and variations is the hawkbill. The hawkbill blade shape is characterized by a concave edge with a downward pointing tip. There are many traditional knife patterns with similar blade shapes such as the pruner, karambit, and talon knives. An interesting aspect of these knives is that they often originated as agricultural tools, with the concave or downward curved edge being suited for pulling cuts commonly used in farming, gardening, etc.. However, they have come to be associated more with self defense due to their use as improvised weapons by those who didn’t have access to implements purposefully designed as weapons, such as farmers who couldn’t afford swords using sickles as weapons.

My only hawkbill blade, the Spyderco Reverse, with its superb DarkStar Gear sheath

Straight Edges

Wharncliffe

A wharncliffe has a straight edge and a spine that curves gradually down to meet the tip. Due to the more gradual curve of the spine to the edge, a wharncliffe tends to have a finer point than the proceeding two straight edged blade shapes. A wharncliffe is often a secondary blade on multi blade knives, but can also be a main blade especially on its own as a single blade. The wharncliffe is a great blade for fine work and pull cuts, and I usually prefer it as a small secondary. I like pen style two blade knives with a straight edged secondary, and a wharncliffe is probably my favorite in that role of the three listed here.

Sheepfoot

A sheepfoot has a straight edge, but the spine has a straight portion that angles downward to the tip with a rounded area connecting the two spine portions. I’m not sure I have done a great job describing that well enough that you could picture it accurately based on the description alone, but thankfully I have lots of examples to show! The sheepfoot is a well liked blade shape. It is often a secondary blade, especially on stockman patterns, but can be a main blade even on multi bladed knives. My first GEC, the knife that got me back into traditionals, was a #15 TC barlow with a single sheepfoot blade. I’ve found it to be extremely practical, despite its lack of a fine point and lack of a curved edge. I also think it looks great when manufactured with the right proportions. The sheepfoot can also another great option of a straight edged secondary blade, like on the GEC #35 Churchill or the GEC #98 Texas Camp Knife.

GEC Sheepfeet: #18 Beagle, #35 Churchill, #53 Cuban Stockman, #98 Texas Camp Knife, #15 TC Barlow

Coping

A coping blade is very similar to a sheepfoot, but with the connection of the two spine areas that come together having a sharp angle rather than being rounded. Coping blades are almost always secondary blades. Coping blades are often found on whittler and congress patterns. Although they can work well for small fine cuts in whittling and other similar tasks, I have often found that the angled spine of a coping blade can decrease the ergonomic comfortability of a knife, especially on a heavy user. Unfortunately, I don’t currently have a coping blade to take a close up picture but the Queen Railsplitter below has a secondary blade that is on the coping side of a sheepfoot.

Tanto

The tanto blade shape is essentially the same shape as a coping blade, but with the spine and edge sides switched. A tanto has a long straight edge, sometimes with a slight continuous curve, starting from the handle that meets at an angle with another shorter edge that is angled upward and connects with the spine to form the tip. The tanto blade shape originated in Japan and was slightly different than it is commonly made now, with a less hard angle at the intersection of the two edges and an upward curved spine. The now more well known “Americanized tanto” usually has a straight or downward curved spine and a very hard angle at the intersection of the two edges. A tanto often has a hollow grind on the long edge and a flat grind on the shorter edge, for increased strength at the tip, but this is not universal. I like the tanto blade as a utility knife. It excels at opening boxes, using the angled intersection of the edges, and push cuts like those done while breaking down cardboard.

Americanized Tanto Fixed Blade, Cold Steel Kobun
Traditional Tanto, DCL Knives Kwaiken

Outliers

There are many traditional blade shapes not discussed in full above, and an endless continuum of variations between and upon the traditional blade shapes. Modern knife makers have also designed many modified versions of traditional blade shapes. A. G. Russell has contributed a great deal to the knife community over the years, and they offer an incredible resource in their Blade Shapes Encyclopedia. Although I don’t use the exact same terminology or definitions as them across the board, their site has a huge amount of helpful information.

Several blade shapes that span more than one traditional pattern or are modified from a traditional pattern

Blade shapes are designated by specific traits and how they relate to each other: edge shape, spine shape, tip height, and sometimes spine and edge angles. However, many of these traits and their relations to discrete blade shapes work more subjectively and on sliding scales, rather than as clear cut absolutes. Some of the most common curved edge blade shapes are the spear point, drop point, and clip point. Some of the most common straight edged blade shapes are the wharncliffe, sheepfoot, and coping blades. Still, sometimes a blade won’t fit these general categories and you’ll have to just look at the knife and categorize it based on its overall design and aesthetic. Yet again, another aspect of the knife hobby comes down to “you know it when you see it”!

April 13, 2019April 13, 2019

Head VS Heart; To Collect or to Use Your Knives

The question of what the “right way” to express enthusiasm for knives is one that shouldn’t need answered. I find it silly and overbearing for anyone to suppose that they should or can tell another the best way to enjoy a hobby. Still, I have gone through several phases in regard to the idea of keeping knives as collection pieces in contrast to keeping them as using tools, and I think others have had similar shifts in perspectives. In this post I’ll describe my progression through those stages and how my current collection looks… but no guarantees it won’t change again!

A tasteful knife display, the stand a gift from my fiancee

I, like many, started with having only one knife that I used for everything. I didn’t even really consider the idea of having knives as collection pieces, and probably would have scoffed at the idea had it been suggested. Still, I was what I would consider a knife enthusiast though, as I appreciated the knife not just as a tool but as a piece of mechanical workmanship that elevated man’s most ancient tool to a higher level. I think there is a silent but quite large population of people who fit this category; they appreciate a good knife and see it as more than a disposable tool, but they don’t venture further into the hobby with more knives and deeper research.

I store my modern knives in a cheap single layer tackle box

Most of my modern knives, all users to varying degrees

A desire to know more about a particular knife brought me to the next step in the knife hobby. I don’t remember exactly what I was looking up, but in the process I found BladeForums and my eyes were opened to the wide world of the knife hobby. As I read, watched, and listened I grew more knowledgeable on knives, the knife making process, and the knife community in general. At this stage I began to purchase more knives beyond one user, but the number stayed relatively low and all were used regularly. I think this represents another distinct stage in the knife enthusiast scale, as it is a step out of appreciating knives as an individual separate from any other enthusiasts, and into the larger knife community. I stayed at this stage for a while, buying and selling and trading knives as I learned. During this stage I never amassed a significant enough number of knives that any would go unused for long. I think this is a stage that a lot of people also stay in and don’t move deeper into the hobby from, but fewer than the previous stage.

I store most of my user traditionals, sharpening gear, and random EDC stuff in a multi layer tackle box

The final stage is reached when you have more than enough knives to use, but you keep buying them anyway! Often, I think people reach this stage also because they start to realize their preferences and build coherent collections. This is when knives accumulate to the point that some don’t get used. Another thing that often happens before this stage is you start to accumulate knives that are rare, have sentimental value, etc. that make them less likely to be used. This stage probably has the widest variation in expression; some people might have one knife they use all the time and 100 (or 1000) that they never use or carry at all, and some might have 100 knives that they carry and use in a rotation and only 10 (or 1) that they have as a non user collection piece. I fall somewhere on that spectrum closer to the latter end.

I store my non user knife collection in a Pelican case

Top Row:
GEC #46 Whaler AMKCA 2018 Club Knife, GEC #46 Whaler 2018 Rendezvous Special, GEC #38 Special 2017 Rendezvous Special, GEC #74 Mustang 2016 Rendezvous Special, GEC #74 Improved Trapper 2015 Rendezvous Special, GEC #15 TC One Arm Barlow 2014 Rendezvous Special
Bottom Row:
Queen Copperhead, GEC #53 Cuban Stockman, GEC #82 Dixie Stock Knife, Victorinox Spartan Costa Rica

However, I don’t believe those stages tell the whole story of knife collecting. For me, being a knife collector is about enjoying the hobby. For some people, that means having and using one knife till the wheels fall off. For others, that means buying every trendy or appealing knife that comes out and keeping them pristine. For me, it has come to mean many things. First, it means enjoying the knives I have. While I do keep some knives as pristine as possible, I try to enjoy them by displaying them and showing them at knife club meetings and shows. Other knives I enjoy by carrying and using them. I find that using a knife is the best way to enjoy it. It just feels right to use a knife as a tool, and doing so seems to confirm its value and place as the most fundamental human tool. So, why not use all my knives? For a long time, I didn’t think I had a satisfactory answer to that question. I had valuable knives, both of the monetary and sentimental type, but I thought that if I didn’t use them it was a waste to keep them. However, that led me to sell knives that I later wished I had kept (which will be the subject of another article). Now, I’ve become comfortable with the idea that some knives are better kept in good condition whether it be because they’re valuable, part of a set, or meant to be an heirloom. I have a small collection of knives I don’t use. Some of them are the Great Eastern Cutlery Rendezvous Specials. These are knives made in small numbers for the gathering GEC holds in Titusville every year and only available at the gathering. They’re usually unique knives in some way. They’ve become the main part of my non user collection, as they’re easily the most coherent and rare set of knives I have owned. I actually did use the first couple of these initially, but later decided they were better kept in good condition to form a recognizable and consistent set. I also have a Queen Copperhead that is the best Queen made knife I’ve ever seen that I don’t use because Queen has unfortunately gone out of business. I plan to add some more Queen knives to my non user collection, as I want to have some examples from Queen as one of the most historic cutlery companies in the U.S. and they’ll only get scarcer the longer its doors have been closed. I also have some knives that have been given to me as gifts from friends, family, and loved ones. Despite it seeming silly to not use knives as tools like they’re inherently intended, some knives are worth maintaining in good condition for posterity.

Great Eastern Cutlery Rendezvous Specials on the knife stand from my fiancee, top to bottom:
#46 Whaler 2018 Oily Heart Pine Wood, #38 Special LVS Paua Abalone 2017, #74 Mustang Primitive Bone 2016, GEC #74 Improved Trapper Tortoise Shell Acrylic 2015, GEC #15 TC One Arm Barlow Oil Sucker Rod Wood 2014

Thanks to my fiancee for the idea for this article and the inspiration for the title! In her words “Your heart wants to use all the knives but your head says you should keep some nice”. I can’t thank her enough.

March 1, 2019March 8, 2019

The Trapper Pattern; You Know It When You See It

TL;DR? Check out the companion Knife Thoughts video on my YouTube channel at this link!

This article will be less of a review of a particular knife and more of an overall look at a general knife pattern; the Trapper. The Trapper pattern has a long history and has become well known, or at least recognizable, to most Americans who are familiar with pocket knives. Whether you’re a fan of the pattern and want to know some of its history and specific characteristics or if you have no idea what a Trapper is and are picturing a knife with two spring loaded jaws for capturing small critters, this article will tell you all you all you need to know about the Trapper!

The Case Large Trapper in Yellow Synthetic is a great exemplifier of the Pattern

First, the Trapper is a pattern with a somewhat obscure history. The claim is often put forward on knife blogs and forums that it’s a pattern that’s been used since the frontier days of America when rugged mountain men trudged into the unknown mountains to live out their lonesome and hard, but proud, lives trapping for furs and fortune. Obviously, a knife pattern called the Trapper must have originated from its namesake profession. Unfortunately for the romantics out there imagining Jim Bridger and John Colter comparing their personal Trapper knives in the 1800’s, the Trapper pattern as shown above is a 20th century invention. Like many traditional knife patterns, the Trapper evolved from older types of knives into its own unique pattern in the early 1900’s during the so called Golden Age of American cutlery. In the early decades of the 20th century there was a multitude of cutlery manufacturers that were staffed by cutlers transplanted from the old European knifemaking centers of England and Germany. These companies and cutlers took many older patterns that were brought from Europe and modified them into their own unique American patterns. The Trapper is a great example of that process. The predecessor to the Trapper was probably a slim dogleg jack with about a 4″ handle and a clip point main blade and pen secondary blade. This type of knife was made as far back as the 1880’s, and sometime in the ensuing 4 decades some companies changed the pen secondary to a full length spey blade to make a slimmer version of the classic Trapper as shown above. It seems the beefier trapper with two full length blades probably didn’t appear until the 1920’s. It was probably first made by either Case or Kabar. In this period many knife manufacturers made knives to be branded and sold by other companies. Even more confusingly, many companies, including Case and Kabar, were connected through family ties. These circumstances can make it difficult to pinpoint the genesis of a particular pattern. The Trapper remained a relatively minor pattern until after WWII. Since then pretty much any knife company that makes traditional slipjoints has produced one or more variations of the Trapper pattern, and it has become a mainstay of the American pocket knife market. Speaking of variations, what exactly is (or isn’t) a Trapper?

Camillus Remington Master Guide, Case Large Trapper, Queen Utility, Rough Ryder Trapper, GEC Northfield Improved Trapper, Great Eastern Cutlery Mustang

The Trapper pattern covers a huge range of sizes, blade shape combinations, and even handle shapes. The above picture is a great example the ways in which the size and handle shape of the trapper can vary. Although the Trapper pattern developed from a slim dogleg jack (like the Queen Utility third from the left), it can also have a banana shaped frame (like the Camillus made Remington Master Guide on the far left or the GEC Northfield Improved Trapper and Great Eastern Cutlery Mustang both on the far right), and is probably best known as a beefier dogleg jack (like the Rough Ryder Trapper third from the right) sometimes with a swell on the blade well side of the handle (like the Case Large Trapper second from the left). As you can see, the Trapper’s frame can be one of several different handle shapes with variations possible even within those general shapes. Also, although they tend to stay within the 3.5″ to 4.5″ range, Trappers can land anywhere from the Case Tiny Trapper at 2.375″ closed to the Remington Master Guide at about 5.375″ closed.

Spear and Pen, Clip and Spey, Clip and Spey, Clip and Wharncliffe

The Trapper pattern can also have just about any blade shape style and combination you can imagine. However, the classic configuration is two full size blades with one being a clip point and the other being a spey blade. The clip point is a great all around blade because it offers a pointy tip (although Case knives, like the one below, often come with rounded tips), a solid amount of curved edge, and some straight edge also. The spey blade is historically designed for use in castrating animals, as the abruptly curved belly and lack of a significant tip make it a good blade for slicing and push cuts but not good at piercing (wouldn’t want to stab your livestock when they start kicking, which they will do if you’re using the spey blade for its namesake…). It’s possible that the spey blade was added for outdoorsmen (hunters and TRAPPERS, get it) to use as a skinning blade with less chance of piercing the guts, but my guess would be that it was added just as a novelty to have two full length blades and without much more specific reason than that. Still, it does make for a useful blade combination as it can be nice having two full length blades. I tend to use the spey blade for food prep and the clip point for everything else. Like the shape and size of the handle, the blade shapes on knives considered to be Trappers can go far beyond the classic clip and spey. There’s the Slim Trapper with a single turkish (slender) clip point, the Pen Trapper with a main blade that is most often a clip or drop point but can sometimes be a spey or spear point with a small/secondary pen blade, the Improved Trapper with a clip point and wharncliffe blade, and the Single Blade Trapper with one main blade (usually a clip point, but it can also be a drop, spear, or spey).

Clip Point blade
Spey blade

So, what is a Trapper knife? Considering all the variations laid out above, it might seem that there’s no real definition of what is or isn’t a Trapper. Well, a Trapper definitely is a jack knife, meaning the blades fold out of one end (unlike a pen style multiblade knife, in which the blades open from different ends), and the end the blades come out of should definitely be smaller than the butt end of the handle. A Trapper definitely doesn’t have a straight edged blade, like a sheepfoot or wharncliffe, as its only main blade. Within those parameters, a wide array of knives can be considered Trappers. Kind of like some other things, it’s something that’s difficult to define but you know it when you see it. Another great way to know if a knife is a Trapper is if the company that made it calls it a Trapper!

A great knife to use while camping or to cut hot dog sticks for a fire

The Trapper pattern is somewhat nebulous, but even still it holds a significant place in the American cutlery tradition. Every kind of Trapper has been made, even at least one modern flipper opening version! If you like traditional pocket knives you’re sure to be able to find a Trapper that suits your particular aesthetic and practical tastes.

If you’d like to get yourself a Trapper I have some suggestions. If you’d like the nicest production Trapper you can get currently, and don’t mind carbon (non-stainless) steel, you should go with the Great Eastern Cutlery #48 Slim Dog Leg. Great Eastern Cutlery made knives tend to sell out relatively quickly, but they’ve been doing larger runs to try to better meet demand and there are a good number of these left on dealers’ sites. You can find some at Blue Creek Cutlery, my most often patronized GEC dealer. Ken is a good guy and has good service, don’t hesitate to ask him any questions you have before purchase. You can also find some, including some other handle materials, at DLT Trading. Those Trappers from GEC are USA made in small batches in Titusville PA and heirloom quality but also great users. If you’d like a more modern stainless steel (although not a super steel, using 8cr13mov) and don’t mind your knife being made overseas, the Sowbelly Improved Trapper from A.G. Russell is also a great option. These have a little less character and might not be quite as well finished but they are still really well made and good looking knives, and they’re less expensive than the GECs. If you’d like a less expensive option than the GECs but want to stick with good ol’ Made In U.S.A. quality, Case knives are made in Bradford Pa and aren’t quite as well fitted or finished as GEC but still make great using knives (and many people also collect them). Case offers a multitude of Trapper options: Full Size Stainless Steel, Mini Stainless Steel, Large Stainless Steel Single Blade with Clip and Thumb Stud, Slimline with option for Stainless or Carbon Steel, Full Size Carbon Steel. Another good option that’s really easy on the wallet is going with a Rough Ryder. These are made overseas and sometimes have some issues, but they’re definitely high enough quality to make good users and often are really nice looking for the price, which is significantly lower than any of the above options. Smoky Mountain Knife Works owns the Rough Ryder brand and carries a wide variety of Trappers in different shapes, sizes, and handle materials. Finally, if the modern style trapper I mentioned piqued your interest you can the Boker Plus Urban Trapper at this link.

The links to Amazon in this article are Amazon Affiliate links. That means that if you click them and purchase the product you won’t pay any more than you normally would on Amazon, but I get a commission from the sale. This is just a way for you to support Knife Thoughts and allow me to procure more funding for the project and its knives.

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February 11, 2019February 14, 2019

Knife Thoughts: Great Eastern Cutlery Northfield #06 Pemberton in Smooth White Bone

TL;DR??? Click HERE to watch the Knife Thoughts video on this knife

In 1865 John Stith Pemberton suffered a saber wound to the chest in the Battle of Columbus and subsequently became addicted to morphine. Searching for a replacement for the morphine he created a recipe for “Pemberton’s French Wine Coca”, a variation of a beverage combining alcohol and cocaine: cocaethylene. However, with social pressures against alcohol and looming temperance legislation in his resident city of Atlanta, he scrambled to create a new beverage without alcohol. Mostly through trial and error, with a little random luck, Coca-Cola was born. In the proceeding 150 years Coca-Cola has been adopted worldwide as the soft drink of choice, and one of the most recognizable symbols of that cultural empire is the classic Coke Bottle.

The Coke Bottle traditional knife pattern was given its name in reference to the shape that it shares with the classic curves of the typical glass bottle used by and for Coca-Cola. Although there were probably knives made with this handle shape (more technically called an unequal end swell center jack) before such a bottle was used for Coca-Cola, the ubiquity of the brand and associated shape gave the pattern a unique name and lasting place in the wheelhouse of traditional knife manufacturers. So, to make it clear, a Coke Bottle pattern knife has two rounded ends, usually both ends having bolsters, with one end being smaller than the other and the blade or blades opening at the smaller end with a swell in the center of the handle.

The Great Eastern Cutlery Northfield #06 Pemberton in Smooth White Bone

That brings us to Great Eastern Cutlery’s #06 Pemberton pattern. The Pemberton is a SMALL Coke Bottle pattern knife measuring at about 2.75″ closed with a 2.125″ blade and 2″ cutting edge (on this wharncliffe model). It was first produced in 2013 in single blade clip point and two blade clip point and pen models in several handle materials. In the beginning of 2019 Great Eastern Cutlery is manufacturing another run, this time in a single wharncliffe blade model and a two blade spear point and small sheepfoot model (we’ll talk more about those blade shapes later). They’re making Northfield branded Pembertons in Smooth White Bone (like the subject of this article) and stag, and Tidioute branded knives with Muslin Micarta and Dark Blue Jigged Bone.

The Pemberton is dwarfed even by the medium sized #15 frame TC Barlow

This particular Pemberton is extremely well made; a great ambassador of the Northfield brand. The action is nice with a relatively strong pull for the size of the knife at about a 6 out of 10, and great walk and talk and snap both opening and closing. The top bolster is both threaded (the three lines) and pinched, which I both like the looks of and appreciate in a user because I feel it gives a teence of extra grip in a pinch hold (the most often used grip when cutting). The smooth white bone covers are beautiful, with a nice cream color and little flecks of black in the voids left by the bone capillaries, and very finely fitted to the liners and bolsters so that there are no gaps. The shield is also particularly well fitted on this knife, and I much prefer this “small badge” shield over the “Tidioute” shield used on the blue jigged bone models. This knife also doesn’t have any gaps between the backspring and liners. The backspring is flush with the liners in the fully open and fully closed positions, but not the half stop position (I don’t consider this an issue at all, though I mention it because I know some people like the backspring to be flush in all positions). The only slight manufacturing imperfection on this knife is that the blade is about a half a millimeter off center toward the pile side, but it is in no means a practical issue.

Centering slightly off to the left, no gaps

I’m also pleasantly surprised with the design of this knife. Although I have and enjoy some of GECs other under 3″ patterns, I was concerned that this knife might be too small in the hand to really use due to being a single blade (unlike my other sub 3″ GECs). However, I’ve found this knife to be comfortable in hand, affording a solid 3 finger grip, and easy to use for appropriate tasks. The wharncliffe blade, though small, provides enough cutting edge to do quick work of cutting paper, opening boxes, snipping strings, opening letters, and even breaking down cardboard. This isn’t a knife made for carving the Thanksgiving turkey or skinning and butchering a deer, but it offers a nice thinly ground straight edge in a small package for daily small cutting needs. Also, this knife came from the factory significantly sharper than most Great Eastern Cutlery made knives which was another pleasant surprise. Speaking of small, this thing disappears in your pocket. It’s small enough that it actually sits horizontally in the watch pocket of my jeans, so I’m sure this would be a good low profile option if you work in a less than knife positive environment or have to wear more formal work attire than I do. That said, my typical carry of this knife will probably most often include another larger knife in case I run into a bigger cutting need.

The Pemberton with a Zero Tolerance 0561, a much different knife

The main reason I got this knife is because it fits into two mini collections I have built. I typically focus on just buying knives that individually appeal to me, but I do sometimes make little groupings based on some characteristic. I will be writing another article on my collection of Great Eastern Cutlery small and large pattern pairings and their relation to the upcoming #97 Large Coke Bottle, so subscribe for updates on that. Here I just want to point out the common factor between my collection of under 3″ closed GECs.

GEC #22 Magnum, #06 Pemberton, and #18 Beagle Frames

These three knives are the #22 Magnum, #06 Pemberton, and #18 Beagle. The shared characteristic between these three patterns are their blades; not that they have the same blades obviously but that, according to an engineer at GEC named Randy whom I’ve spoken to at several of the Rendezvous gatherings, the blades represented on the three knives shown are designed to be able to be built into any of the three patterns. What that means is that GEC designed Clip Point, Pen, Wharncliffe, Spear Point, and Small Sheepfoot blades which can all fit into any of these three frames (not that they’re interchangeable once built). So far GEC has produced the #06 with all 5 of these blade shapes (having done Clip Point and Pen on the previous run and doing Wharncliffe, Spear Point and Small Sheepfoot on this run), the #18 with 3 (Wharncliffe, Spear Point and Small Sheepfoot), and the #22 in only 2, the two blade Clip Point and Pen (the #22 is one of GEC’s three patterns with the fewest total number manufactured). This type of engineering oddity might not appeal to all Great Eastern Cutlery collectors, let alone all knife enthusiasts, but I think it is pretty cool and a unique strategy that allows GEC to more easily produce a wide range of different knives without creating new tooling.

Clip Point and Pen, Wharncliffe, and Spear Point and Small Sheepfoot blades

Overall, I think Great Eastern Cutlery got the recipe just right on this Northfield #06 Pemberton. It’s a small knife with superb construction and a classic style that’s tough to deny. John Stith Pemberton advertised his French Coca Wine as beneficial for “all those whose sedentary employment causes nervous prostration” which I think probably covers the majority of us reading this, but I also think the #06 Pemberton (especially in this version with the Wharncliffe blade) would make a more than capable and stylish cutting tool for the daily tasks of our modern lives and sedentary works.

February 9, 2019February 14, 2019

Knife Thoughts: Running of the BULLS!!! Great Eastern Cutlery’s Sod Buster Patterns, the Farm & Field #71 Bullnose and #21 Bullbuster, Compared

Great Eastern Cutlery manufactures knives based on traditional patterns with classic materials and construction, and in that endeavor they’ve reproduced many of the most timeless knife designs. From the ever popular working man’s Barlow to the Congress made famous by its inclusion in President Lincoln’s personal goods, they’ve put their own spin on a myriad of classic American folding knife and fixed blade patterns. Their versions of the classic sod buster pattern show how they can breathe new life into an age old design.

The #71 Bullnose is relatively easy to pocket but stands out once in your hand with the bright orange delrin

Now, first off, neither of these knives are named after the sod buster pattern directly because a certain other cutlery company has trademarked the pattern name. The ethics of trademarking a general industry term aren’t the point of this article, but I just wanted to point out that that situation is why you won’t see or hear anyone at GEC refer to these as “sodbusters”. Instead, they’ve named the #71 and #21 patterns the Bull Nose and Bull Buster, respectively. Still, they are sod buster style knives because they have the simple handle with upswept butt, single skinner blade, and no frills construction that define the pattern.

Size comparison of the #71 Bull Nose and #21 Bull Buster with some familiar knives: Spyderco Native, GEC #15 TC Barlow, Case Trapper, and Benchmade 940

The #71 came first, with the original run being produced in 2012, and is the smaller of the two at around 3.875″ closed. Interestingly, the #71 pattern was first produced in O1 steel under what GEC initially called the Redneck Farm Tool brand. Similarly to the pattern name itself, apparently this was too close to being a trademark issue and they renamed the pattern and launched the Farm & Field brand. The #21 was first produced in 2014 and is a good bit larger at about 4.625″ closed.

Aside from the size, the design and construction of the two patterns are next to identical. Both have 1095 carbon steel, which has become the norm for the vast majority of GEC made knives. Both have steel liners and a lanyard hole. Both have a nail nick for opening, and mine have all been pinchable (able to be opened by pinching the blade with thumb and forefinger, rather than with the nail nick). Both are shadow patterns, meaning they have no bolsters. Being shadow patterns, they feature a bird’s eye pivot which is a metal collar into which the pivot pin is peened (hammered to form a press fit). The pivots on recent models are stamped “F&F USA” with two stars on each side, and the tangs are stamped “Farm & Field Tool USA” on the mark side and “GEC CAR” and the model number designation on the pile side. I have included a link to GEC’s model number / tang stamp chart above. As indicated in it, these knives both have what GEC refers to as a “skinner” blade. It seems they consider the skinner blade shape to be differentiated from their drop point blade shape by the more abrupt belly (upward curve toward the spine and tip), but both shapes hold the “5” blade designation on the tang stamp chart. Both have half stops. They’ve both been made in several handle materials, often including black delrin, orange delrin, and different types of micarta.

An example of a possible every day carry setup with the #71 BullNose

Both patterns also have similar Farm & Field Tool brand fit and finish. Farm & Field is Great Eastern Cutlery’s brand under which they produce knives made to be truly used as tools. Knives under the F&F brand are GEC’s most budget friendly knives. With this in mind, there are some differences in construction and fit and finish compared to GEC’s other brands. First off, the knives under this brand tend to have less expensive handle materials (like delrin and micarta vs bone and wood). The lack of bolsters requires fewer manufacturing processes and therefore also contributes to the lower prices. They also have less handle contouring and polishing. Both the #71 Bull Nose and #21 Bull Buster have thicker handles than most of GEC’s knives. Although this can make them more comfortable in the hand for tough cutting jobs, it’s also due to less finishing time spent on the handles. Certain things like small gaps between the backspring and liners, slight handle imperfections, or imperfect centering are also more likely to be considered acceptable on knives under the Farm & Field Tool brand.

That said, the Farm & Field Tool brand knives are still extremely well made knives. I’ve had several of each of the #71 and #21 patterns along with some other knives under the F&F brand, and they’ve all been generally really well built and ready for a lifetime of use. These two fit that description. The Bull Nose has a slight imperfection in the handle material next to the liner on the backspring, and the Bull Buster had a sliver of liner sticking out that eventually fell off on its own. The one practical issue I’ve had with these is one that, from the sounds of things on the forums etc., others have also encountered. The smaller #71 Bull Nose seems to sometimes suffer from blade rap. Blade rap is when the snap of the blade’s closing makes the edge bounce on the inside of the backspring, thereby damaging the edge (usually a roll in the edge). This edge damage by no means makes the entire blade unusable, but it does cause issues in cutting and can be extremely frustrating. That frustration is often compounded by the fact that the only way for the knife user to fix the issue is to sharpen the blade rap out, meaning they have to sharpen the edge down to the level where it no longer reaches the backspring upon closing. This process can be extremely time consuming and also can shorten the usable life of the knife, due to the removed steel. I had blade rap on a previous #71 that I had to sharpen out, but initially I thought that the two knives featured in this article were both free of blade rap. Unfortunately, actually while filming my linked YouTube video on these knives, I realized that the #71 did have blade rap. However, after two sharpenings with a diamond stone the edge damage and blade rap seems to be gone for good (at least on this knife). I think this issue tends to arise on the smaller #71 and not the larger #21 because the blade well offers less extra room in which the blade can travel as the knife closes.

As for the designs of these knives, I think they hit their mark well as simple but well made work knives. The handle on the Bull Nose is just large enough for me to get a full four finger hold of the knife in a hammer style grip, but is more than large enough for the more practical and more often used pinch style grip. The rounded butt of the handle also helps to secure the knife in this grip. Altogether, this makes for good ergonomics even if my (admittedly rather wide) hands wouldn’t hate another half inch or so of handle. Even with my large hands, the significantly larger Bull Buster offers more than enough grip area and feels spacious in any type of hold. The extra width of the handles, compared to most traditional knives, does make them a little less comfortable to carry in a back pocket (as I do), and this characteristic is especially evident on the larger Bull Buster. However, I think both can be carried easily enough to make them good every day carry options if you’d like something you can throw in your pocket and use and not worry about scuffing up. I appreciate the semi strong pull / backspring strengths on these knives, coming in at about a 6 or 7 out of 10, especially with the design intent of using them in a tougher role than most traditional knives. The skinner style blade shape is pretty good for general use and I doubt anyone will find too much practical fault with it, though I have to say I prefer the look and sharpenability of GEC’s normal drop point shape.

An example of a possible EDC gear setup with the #21 BullBuster

Overall, I would definitely recommend either of these knives if you want a low cost high utility user traditional knife made in America. Which you choose mostly depends on how big a knife you prefer, and whether you are okay with risking blade rap and the resulting necessary work to sharpen out the issue (it’s important to note also that I have only had blade rap on the 2018 Bull Noses, not the ones from previous runs). I think these are a great value at the price they cost, which is about $55 for the #71 Bull Nose and about $65 for the #21 Bull Buster. I also think that it’s great that GEC is able and willing to offer such well made high value knives while not compromising on their quality.

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Curved Edges

Spear Point

Drop Point

Clip Point

Hawkbill / Talon / Pruner

Straight Edges

Wharncliffe

Sheepfoot

Coping

Tanto

Outliers

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TL;DR? Check out the companion Knife Thoughts video on my YouTube channel at this link!

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TL;DR??? Click HERE to watch the Knife Thoughts video on this knife

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